Need help quick.....Brake fluid leak
#1
Need help quick.....Brake fluid leak
I have a 97 LT 4X4. I was checking the brake fluid in the master cyl today and it was definitely low. I added some to just above the fill MIN line and then pumped the brake a few times to get the fluid worked around into the lines. On one of the pumps the pressure on the brake pedal went away and I heard an air bleed sound.
Right after this I got out and noticed brake fluid leaking onto the driveway from the area under drivers side door. I looked at the area but all I saw was the parking brake line and an attached rubber-coated line. The fluid looks to be coming from above these and from inside the frame rail.
There are two compartments in my master cylinder. The bottom one, toward the front of the engine is empty. I can add fluid but it empties and bleeds from the same area. The brakes seem to work but there is a slight shudder upon braking.
Is the cylinder divided into two compartments (front and rear)? Did I pop a brake line? I can not see the direct source so am at a loss for how to fix this. Thanks for any help
Cajun
Right after this I got out and noticed brake fluid leaking onto the driveway from the area under drivers side door. I looked at the area but all I saw was the parking brake line and an attached rubber-coated line. The fluid looks to be coming from above these and from inside the frame rail.
There are two compartments in my master cylinder. The bottom one, toward the front of the engine is empty. I can add fluid but it empties and bleeds from the same area. The brakes seem to work but there is a slight shudder upon braking.
Is the cylinder divided into two compartments (front and rear)? Did I pop a brake line? I can not see the direct source so am at a loss for how to fix this. Thanks for any help
Cajun
#2
RE: Need help quick.....Brake fluid leak
You definitely broke a line. You may need a mirror to find where the break is. It's definitely going to be fun to fix!
#3
RE: Need help quick.....Brake fluid leak
ORIGINAL: swartlkk
You definitely broke a line. You may need a mirror to find where the break is. It's definitely going to be fun to fix!
You definitely broke a line. You may need a mirror to find where the break is. It's definitely going to be fun to fix!
Cajun
#4
RE: Need help quick.....Brake fluid leak
This pretty much has to be the line to the rear brakes if it is under the driver's door. And yes, the master cylinder is split into two sections, front and rear. If you have rear drum brakes, the chamber in the master cylinder reservoir for the rear brakes will be smaller than that of the front.
Repairs I have done in the past were completed by cutting the line back where it is still corrosion free, flaring it with a flaring tool, and putting in a generic replacement line. You will have to do this on either side of the compromised line. Replace everything that you see corrosion on or you'll be doing it again sometime in the near future. Much of the problem with this kind of repair is the health of the original line. To replace it with a new, pre-bent line would be $$$. You can bend up your own generic straight lengths just fine (but invest in a tube bender it makes the process much better on the line.
Repairs I have done in the past were completed by cutting the line back where it is still corrosion free, flaring it with a flaring tool, and putting in a generic replacement line. You will have to do this on either side of the compromised line. Replace everything that you see corrosion on or you'll be doing it again sometime in the near future. Much of the problem with this kind of repair is the health of the original line. To replace it with a new, pre-bent line would be $$$. You can bend up your own generic straight lengths just fine (but invest in a tube bender it makes the process much better on the line.
#5
RE: Need help quick.....Brake fluid leak
Do you know where the brake line runs? If it is in that frame rail I got hell trying to figure out where it is broken/where to repair. Thanks
Cajun
Cajun
#6
RE: Need help quick.....Brake fluid leak
I wouldn't even mess with the old line in the frame rail. Brake line is cheap from teh parts store $5 ofr 5 feet or so. Plump up new line from teh master to where you can get access to the old line in the frame or run new all the way back. Don't even mess with it inside the frame rail, run it on the frame. Should be plenty of room for that. You can get fancy clips to hold the brake line in place, or use some strap tin, wrap it around the line, drill a hole through it and the frame, and then drive a self tapping screw into the frame to secure it.
Only way I would mess wiht the frame repair is if this is a show truck. Just not worth the hassle for anything else. Flaring tools are nice, or you can use a liquid laundry detergents bottle cap. Its like a 3" radius and works great for brake line bends.
By the way, if the line rsted through in one spot, whats to say the rest of the line is any better, or you dont have crap in the line. Run new and dont think twice about it. You can use some of the old line to practice bending up the brake line.
Only way I would mess wiht the frame repair is if this is a show truck. Just not worth the hassle for anything else. Flaring tools are nice, or you can use a liquid laundry detergents bottle cap. Its like a 3" radius and works great for brake line bends.
By the way, if the line rsted through in one spot, whats to say the rest of the line is any better, or you dont have crap in the line. Run new and dont think twice about it. You can use some of the old line to practice bending up the brake line.
#7
RE: Need help quick.....Brake fluid leak
ORIGINAL: Hanr3
I wouldn't even mess with the old line in the frame rail. Brake line is cheap from teh parts store $5 ofr 5 feet or so. Plump up new line from teh master to where you can get access to the old line in the frame or run new all the way back. Don't even mess with it inside the frame rail, run it on the frame. Should be plenty of room for that. You can get fancy clips to hold the brake line in place, or use some strap tin, wrap it around the line, drill a hole through it and the frame, and then drive a self tapping screw into the frame to secure it.
Only way I would mess wiht the frame repair is if this is a show truck. Just not worth the hassle for anything else. Flaring tools are nice, or you can use a liquid laundry detergents bottle cap. Its like a 3" radius and works great for brake line bends.
By the way, if the line rsted through in one spot, whats to say the rest of the line is any better, or you dont have crap in the line. Run new and dont think twice about it. You can use some of the old line to practice bending up the brake line.
I wouldn't even mess with the old line in the frame rail. Brake line is cheap from teh parts store $5 ofr 5 feet or so. Plump up new line from teh master to where you can get access to the old line in the frame or run new all the way back. Don't even mess with it inside the frame rail, run it on the frame. Should be plenty of room for that. You can get fancy clips to hold the brake line in place, or use some strap tin, wrap it around the line, drill a hole through it and the frame, and then drive a self tapping screw into the frame to secure it.
Only way I would mess wiht the frame repair is if this is a show truck. Just not worth the hassle for anything else. Flaring tools are nice, or you can use a liquid laundry detergents bottle cap. Its like a 3" radius and works great for brake line bends.
By the way, if the line rsted through in one spot, whats to say the rest of the line is any better, or you dont have crap in the line. Run new and dont think twice about it. You can use some of the old line to practice bending up the brake line.
#8
RE: Need help quick.....Brake fluid leak
I found where the brake lines run up on top of the body rail. Now I see what was meant by "needing a mirror" to see the spot where the line broke. I can not feel it but the good news is that I am 90% sure the break is on a straight part of the line and the part of the line that shows corrosion is only about 6-8 inches long. I think I can handle this.
Cajun
Cajun
#9
RE: Need help quick.....Brake fluid leak
As I sort of eluded to and Tim stated, you have to inspect the whole line. Just replacing one corroded section simply won't do. Follow the line all the way back to a connection. If you see that only one section is corroded, then you can attempt to replace just that section, or the whole line. I have had varying success with flaring old lines. More often than not, the flare will crack, especially if you are new to putting flares on. In this case, I would recommend that you replace the whole line. Use multiple sections to get to where you need. You don't always have to go with the longest line available either. Sometimes it is easier to work through a complicated section with a shorter, dedicated line than to try to make a longer line work. Obviously the less amount of connections you make the better, but there are instances where shorter is better.
#10
RE: Need help quick.....Brake fluid leak
ORIGINAL: swartlkk
As I sort of eluded to and Tim stated, you have to inspect the whole line. Just replacing one corroded section simply won't do. Follow the line all the way back to a connection. If you see that only one section is corroded, then you can attempt to replace just that section, or the whole line. I have had varying success with flaring old lines. More often than not, the flare will crack, especially if you are new to putting flares on. In this case, I would recommend that you replace the whole line. Use multiple sections to get to where you need. You don't always have to go with the longest line available either. Sometimes it is easier to work through a complicated section with a shorter, dedicated line than to try to make a longer line work. Obviously the less amount of connections you make the better, but there are instances where shorter is better.
As I sort of eluded to and Tim stated, you have to inspect the whole line. Just replacing one corroded section simply won't do. Follow the line all the way back to a connection. If you see that only one section is corroded, then you can attempt to replace just that section, or the whole line. I have had varying success with flaring old lines. More often than not, the flare will crack, especially if you are new to putting flares on. In this case, I would recommend that you replace the whole line. Use multiple sections to get to where you need. You don't always have to go with the longest line available either. Sometimes it is easier to work through a complicated section with a shorter, dedicated line than to try to make a longer line work. Obviously the less amount of connections you make the better, but there are instances where shorter is better.
Cajun