Here is a picture of the unit in the Blazer..seems a bit different than others I have seen videos on...





Its funny how after the brake install I started having issues with the ABS...I might have boogered up something with the sensors but who knows for sure. I am goind to order the drivers side sensor and install over the next couple days.

I know it was mentioed that I should throw money at new parts right off, but figure with 213k miles on most of the stuff on the Blazer I will check it off as prevenative maint.

I noticed two bleeder looking types of fittings on the ABS control module...do those get bled at some time? Jsut curious........

My old Sierra had the flat black box hanging next to MC....nothing like this unit....

 

You have to have a Tech II scanner to bleed the ABS.

 

Spend good money in a good way. Leverage a small amount of money to gain a great amount of correct diagnosis. Go either to a stealership or to a specialty brake shop. GET A PRO.

 

When I decide to give up, I may take it to brake shop...dont think I will every set foot on the dealerships service center

 

How are your hubs, loose hubs can cause crap also

 

That's why I said "In my experience" instead of stating it as fact... I've bought three used vehicles that have needed rear brakes done, but the front brakes were still good. I apologize for sounding stupid.

 

Hubs look good IMHO.....

Well...after work today, I tore into the drivers side and took off the tire to insect the braking system....one thing for sure is that it got really hot down there....

Pads and rotor appear to be in good shape, caliper has heat discoloration and no leaks to be seen.

I went ahead and replaced the ABS sensor and reinstalled everything....

Took her out for a drive and the brakes perfom well......

However, the friggin' ABS light is on now..lol

I have a feeling the braking system was having issues with the previous owner as for the brake booster and MC were freshly replaced....looks like he / she didnt get to pads, rotors, calipers etc....

Figure Ill do right side ABS sensor in a week or so....its good practice and for ****s and gigs, my daughter assists me, so I get to explain basic mechanics to her......

Ill post some pics here soon.....

I dont mean to "post *****" this thread, but for some reason I can post more than one pic per reply...at least not yet....

I removed the wheel and this is what I saw...specks are from grease I think that may have came out of dust cap.

 

ah, I gotcha now. I was confused, P/O must have just NEVER changed the rears on them.

 

Another pic





Caliper removed





Eeeeek...look at that sensor.........









Removing ABS sensor and assembly....cover greasy silver thing..lol



Old vs New Side 1



Old vs New Side 2


New close up



Old close up



Installed



Rotor and cap reinstalled



Almost done.........





Man...connecting the harness was a PITA..no room for my hands to get in there.....

And like I said...."NOW" the ABS Light is on...lol

At least they work.......

 

Can't really tell from your images... Can you post an image of the installed calipers showing the bleeders? Label which side is which in each image.

Primary bleeding of ABS equipped vehicles should never involve pumping the pedal. It can, and usually does, introduce air into the ABS unit. If/when that happens, the automated bleed MUST be done using a scan tool capable of initiating it. Always gravity bleed one wheel at a time and never allow the master cylinder to run dry on fluid. Allow each wheel to bleed until no bubbles are present. Repeat for each wheel. After all are bled, have an assistant hold pressure on the brake pedal, don't pump it, rapidly open & close the bleeder, (don't allow pedal to go to the floor) to make sure no air is present. Repeat at each wheel. If the master cylinder runs dry, the automated bleed MUST be done using a scan tool capable of initiating it.