had to do that on the last car I had, tried to get bleeder out and ended up snapping it off flush... I'll have to be careful with these... fun fun... not something I was planning on doing in the middle of winter.

 

Not something you plan on doing any time of year Not a "fun" job, especially on your back in a snow bank at 20F!

 

high of 25F tomorrow, wind chill -6F....i'll be out there....

 

coolasice.... might just be colderthanice

 

well $178 later, back working, wasn't a busted line but a busted caliper! 1 new caliper (fluid spun around inside wheel and couldn't tell it was busted until removed), new rotors and pads and good to go, still have a wee bit of air in the system, but for now it's working ok. Will try to bleed better on next day off.....

 

Glad you got her fixed. Personally, I'd much rather do rear brakes than replace a line I hope the new caliper came with the bracket and new guide pins. The guide pins like to seize up in the brackets causing the pads to drag and overheat. Keep an eye on the other side, if it starts to overheat you'll need to replace that one too.

 

yea, it did, I may need to replace the other caliper later on, it was getting a bit tough to push in, but i'll wait till spring when it warms up a bit (i don't drive it much... maybe 4k since I bought it last july....)

 

With New Calipers or when I first get a car and have to bleed brakes, I always take the Bleeders out, put anti seize on the threads. in the future there is at least a fighting chance they will come out.
Do you bleed the brakes using a small hose from the bleeder to small jar with a little Brake fluid in it? Best way to do it. If you are one person, it's the only way to do it without waiting for a gravity Bleed.

 

Anti seize is a great idea. I assumed everybody did it, maybe not Bleeding with a power bleeder is the only guaranteed way to get 100% of the air out. Unfortunately, not everyone can afford one. Gravity bleeding is the next best thing. Fluid is heavier than air, so it will always force the air out. Any time you pump the pedal when bleeding, you run the risk of introducing air into the system simply from turbulence in the master cylinder or leaky seals. The hose and jar method should only be used as a last resort. When the bleeder is raised off of its seat, air can easily be sucked past the bleeder threads when the pedal is released.