Sounds like a bad starter.

George

 

As George says. Looks as a bad starter.
A friendly advices here:
1. You usually get a better results finding a shop and asking them to replace the electromagnet at the genuine starter, than replacing whole unit for a chinese piece of junk.
2. Do one task at a time. Then You can easily see what has changed when, and less likely You'll run into a trouble.

 

Well took the starter in to have it rebuilt. The armature was "burned up" so the starter wouldn't turn on the bench when energized.

Waited a week for rebuild parts but they were the wrong type so I settle for a new starter.

Clean connections and reinstall start now starts. Verified the alternator works with 14.45 volts at the battery after three starts and and stops.

Now on the LIM gaskets and finding a huge vacuum leak which could be the LIM but will inspect parts as we work carefully.

Thanks all for the help and suggestions.

 

Good news. We appreciate Your feedback. There are many abandoned threads by OP, so readers cannot fully evaluate them.
I am hoping You have a good quality starter. A friend of mine had a cheap replacement installed once, that lasted three months only.
For LIM gasket, make sure You follow the tightening torque specifications. You may find them within a Vortec 4.3 service manual (easy to google). We had a member who didn't pay attention, so the LIM didn't land evenly and was leaking.

 

And use Felpro

George

 

Felpro has several different LIM gasket sets. For example, I've done my LIM with plastic based frames last spring, and it turned out I should have used the aluminum ones. So now I have to do it over again. To make sure: You want Felpro, but aluminum ones (code Fel-Pro MS 98002 T)

 

As a person who very very recently just did replace injectors and the LIM along with good cleaning and valve cover gaskets to boot it is a detailed job. I was given a good website link from the gang here for the job with great photos to do the job step by step. Tip: yea, get new bolts and use 4 of the old ones for guide pins by cutting off heads and cut a slot for a flat screw driver when reassemble time comes. Made the job so nice to have that metal slab drop right into place without smearing your wonderful sealant up. Just start thread the 4 modified bolts and drop er down, then start the new bolts in the 4 open holes and then remove the old one with the screw driver. Worth the effort. Your going to need a decent inch rated torque wrench, not lbs. I got lucky and sons pal lent me a snap-on one that was great to work with.

this was the link to info I used- highly recommended. How To Replace Intake Manifold Gaskets On A GMC Jimmy 4.3 Liter V6 To Fix A Coolant Leak - GM Truck Engine Repairs

good luck and keep us posted, everyone likes some photos and follow up on how the repair went.

 

I used a same link to carry this out. Excellent writing. I got stuck pretty at start, with a petcock valve that wouldn't open. I've drained through a lower radiator hose.

 

Guys thank you for the advice on changing the LIM.

I have changed two other ones successfully and done several other intake manifolds on small block chevys.

I think the links will help my son prepare as this is his first. My most difficult thing will be to let him do it and not just start doing for him. .

He's ordered the gasket set and bolt set using the metal backed FelPro set.

When I did the one in my ZR2 I bought an inch pound torque wrench.

Once again thank you for your help.

 

Ya the biting of the tongue and slapping the back of your own hands is the hardest part of teaching ..... LOL