no heat - no air
ok, I have a 99 Blazer with no heat and no air. From all indecations and advice, I thought that the problem was the "blend door actuator". I finally got it out Saturday and tested the little motor inside and it worked (turned all the little gears etc.). Could there still be a problem with it? I did see alot of electronics in the box that I don't have a clue about or what any of it does. If the actator isn't the problem - any ideas? I have charged the air system and the canister frosts up real good and have back flushed the heater core. All the obvious stuff like the fan works. The thing just blows air - not hot - not cold no matter where the controls are set.
Does this have the 'Automatic' Climate Control module? When mine went out, it was the climate control module....$400 at the dealers.
Try www.car-part.com.....
Try www.car-part.com.....
Im having the exact same issue as well. if i let my truck sit in place and warm up i do however get a little bit of heat but not enough to call it even warm air really.
And i dont have the auto climate just the little dial from cold to hot which 1 feels loose like its not changing the temp and 2 does nothing. I checked the actuator and it does open and close but only when im changing from window floor or vent which is even weirder. So if im on wind shield or floor settings its "warm" if i go vent then it goes cold completely. This all happened some where after replacing the heater core and yes there is no air bubbles in the coolant lines. new thermostat and fan works just squeals some lol
i checked and there seems to be no vacuum leaks only thing i can think of is there is a cord plugged in the wrong place or i missed one somewhere or the "climate control" needs replacing. any ideas?
And i dont have the auto climate just the little dial from cold to hot which 1 feels loose like its not changing the temp and 2 does nothing. I checked the actuator and it does open and close but only when im changing from window floor or vent which is even weirder. So if im on wind shield or floor settings its "warm" if i go vent then it goes cold completely. This all happened some where after replacing the heater core and yes there is no air bubbles in the coolant lines. new thermostat and fan works just squeals some lol
i checked and there seems to be no vacuum leaks only thing i can think of is there is a cord plugged in the wrong place or i missed one somewhere or the "climate control" needs replacing. any ideas?
Hello Everyone,
I just finished replacing the Temp Control Actuator on my 2000 Chevy Blazer 4WD. The part cost $99 at O'Reilly Auto Parts and it took about an hour to replace it. I went throught the GLOVE BOX. Three auto repair shops quoted me between $300 to $600 labor plus the cost of the part which in one case was quoted at $263!! They all said that the entire dash had to be pulled. This was of course BS. I found all the information I needed to do this job right here on this very forum. I've never done this before and it was a snap. All you need to do this is a 7/32" socket and 1/4" drive ratchet. Disconnect the battery (the negative terminal only will do).
The glove box drops when you push on the metal tang in the upper left hand corner of the box. Then push up on the vacuum cylinder and move it to the left (driver's side) to give you a bit more room to get the wrench onto the bolt heads. There are 3 bolts and an electrical plug on the actuator that needs to be removed. Once out replace in reverse order. Replace battery cable. Turn ignition key to ON position and for a few minutes. This re-initializes the actuator you'll hear it move the door. Now your finished. So much for high priced dealers and repair shops who want to gouge us with outrageous labor and parts costs! My thanks to this forum for the accuarte information and time saving procedure.
I just finished replacing the Temp Control Actuator on my 2000 Chevy Blazer 4WD. The part cost $99 at O'Reilly Auto Parts and it took about an hour to replace it. I went throught the GLOVE BOX. Three auto repair shops quoted me between $300 to $600 labor plus the cost of the part which in one case was quoted at $263!! They all said that the entire dash had to be pulled. This was of course BS. I found all the information I needed to do this job right here on this very forum. I've never done this before and it was a snap. All you need to do this is a 7/32" socket and 1/4" drive ratchet. Disconnect the battery (the negative terminal only will do).
The glove box drops when you push on the metal tang in the upper left hand corner of the box. Then push up on the vacuum cylinder and move it to the left (driver's side) to give you a bit more room to get the wrench onto the bolt heads. There are 3 bolts and an electrical plug on the actuator that needs to be removed. Once out replace in reverse order. Replace battery cable. Turn ignition key to ON position and for a few minutes. This re-initializes the actuator you'll hear it move the door. Now your finished. So much for high priced dealers and repair shops who want to gouge us with outrageous labor and parts costs! My thanks to this forum for the accuarte information and time saving procedure.
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