2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech Discuss 2nd generation S-series (1995-2005) general tech topics here.

A noobie thanks

Old Apr 9, 2014 | 02:25 PM
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This is my first post and i just wanted to say i have never even tried to work on or understand motor vehicles in my life i recently bought my first vehicle from my brother and it was a 2000 blazer lt. It sat for about a year before i bought it and then after i drove around a little bit and hit some railroads pretty hard i had a major gas leak and a evap system problem(bad cannister). I was nervous to work on it myself but after many hours reading the forums and cross checking info i was able to replace the gas tank(the fuel tank vent valve broke) and replaced the the charcoal can ister and the solenoid. Much appreciation to the admins on this page Today i aim to tackle the idler arm because bouncing all over the highway is a little nerve racking . Any tips would be great but i know the answers are probably already on here. Thanks again for keeping a noob mobile blazerforums
 
Old Apr 9, 2014 | 03:53 PM
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Replacement of the idler arm is not difficult but will require a special tool to separate the ball joint; either a pickle fork or a lever type separator, Harbor Freight tools have both.

But I have to ask why do you think the idler arm needs replacement and why do you think this is going to solve the bouncing all over the highway problem? This could be worn-out tie rod ends, inner and outer, ball joints (especially lower), shocks, torsion rods...and probably a few more items.

Let us know so we can help....that is what we like to do here.
 
Old Apr 9, 2014 | 04:58 PM
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My bro bought the idler and never put it on and told me it would help theres alot that needs to be tuned up from what i saw from underneath but funds are limited and i do agree about the rod ends and the lower ball joints but i just have the idler arm for now...
 
Old Apr 9, 2014 | 09:59 PM
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Understand.
The idler arm has two bolts into the frame and the ball joint to the steering linkage. The bolts are easy of course; the ball joint requires the separator tool as I mentioned above; available at Harbor Freight which will work for you.

Pretty straightforward; remove old and replace with new, do not forget to add grease to the ball joint.

Just so I am not confusing you - when I say ball joint I am referring to the ball joint on the end of the idler arm...not the ball joints on the upper and lower control arms.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.
 
Old Apr 10, 2014 | 12:39 PM
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i ended up not getting to it till late last night and i under estimated how tricky that damn idler arm is to get off im gonna go buy a pickle fork real quick and see if i can get it off with that i got the frame bolts off it though also my new idler arm is one that is i guess an upgrade its different in that the where it attaches to the centerlink the threaded bolt is a part of the idler arm itself
 
Old Apr 11, 2014 | 08:23 AM
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Do you have a part number for this new idler arm that you can post? The ball or swivel joint has a threaded bolt that passes through to the centerlink...this is normal. If the one on the Blazer is separated then it really does need replacement as it is broken.
 
Old Apr 11, 2014 | 10:13 AM
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heres the part number for the new idler K6251T its a moog replacement idler
 
Old Apr 11, 2014 | 10:54 AM
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thats the wrong one, in your other thread you said yours was 2 wheel drive.

2 wheel drive doesnt have a stud on it. you need part # moog K6187T
 
Old Apr 11, 2014 | 11:32 AM
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i think i came to that conclusion yesterday and just didnt want to admit it ... i was told i could get that bolt out the centerlink and i might have f-ed it up trying to thanks for the affrimation though
 
Old Apr 11, 2014 | 11:33 AM
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by the way is it safe to put the old idler back on if possible till i get the correct part in the mail
 
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