My wife's 2005 Jimmy 2dr 4x4 is approaching 100,000 kilometers, so I am doing some preventative (hopefully) maintenance on it. The original tyres still had a fair amount of tread life on them. but I replaced them With Michelin LTX MS2, in a 235/75 15 size, They are a bit bigger then the original Goodyear Wranglers, but I don't believe that should effect anything other than the speedometer will read a a bit off. I have had the transmission flushed at the dealer and now have Dex VI in it. I have replaced the diff and transfer case oils and baster replaced the power steering fluid. While replacing all the pads rotors and calipers, I found the idler arm worn and replaced that. Before I get an alignment done I want to fix the check engine light. I replaced the plugs and cap and rotor,it runs great but of course the light is still on. I bought a code tester and a P0449 code showed up. This indicates a wiring problem with the vent solenoid. I did a search on this forum and will tackle the problem tomorrow. There is a huge amount of information on this site for which I am thank full. If I have any problems I will post here. Is there anything else I should be looking at at this stage. She drives by herself at times and I want to be sure everything is covered.

 

This will help you with the P0449 diagnosis:
Something else to check, before you get an alignment, is all 4 ball joints. Very common problem for them to wear. If they need replacement, Moog brand will give the best service.

 

That is a very informative video, thanks. As far as the ball joints are concerned, I gave everything a good shake, but everything looked ok. Is there a special way to check them?
While I was under checking out where that vent solenoid, I found a fuel filter, that I doubt has ever been off so will change tat as well. I went to our local GM dealer (the only one in town) The vent solenoid was about 40$ and the filter was 35$. I thought the filter was a bit dear, but 100,000 kilometers between changes may justify the price tag.

 

The lower ball joints are the load bearing joints on S&T body vehicles, which means you need to unload them to check them. Raise the vehicle by placing a jack as close as possible to the lower ball joint. The tire needs to be 3" or 4" off the ground. Using a 4' section of pipe under the tire, use the pipe as a lever to raise and lower the tire while watching the joint. If there is any movement in the joint, it needs replacement.

The upper joint does not carry a load, it follows the vertical movement of the steering knuckle. With the vehicle jacked up, the upper ball joint can be checked by placing your hands at the top of the tire and push/pull inboard and outboard while watching the joint. There should be no movement.

$40 is about right for the vent solenoid, but the filter should be around $15, or less.

 

Thank you I will check them out in the morning

Checked out both sides, drivers side had barely perceptible movement, passenger side none. But while I was there, I noticed that the bushings had quite a number of hairline cracks in the rubber. After reading a number of posts on the subject, I think I will replace the upper and lower control arms as a unit for both sides, as I have no access to presses or torches etc.
But I am going to wait until next winter, as I very much doubt if she will have put more then an additional 7 or 8 thousand kilometers on it between now and then.

 

Not a bad idea to replace them. The lowers can be dangerous, it requires unloading the torsion bars before removing the arms. Do your homework and learn how to unload them, (special tool). There are threads here on the forum that explain how to do it. Dorman makes the arms and they are available on Amazon & Ebay. The ball joints that come with the arms are el cheapos, so it would be a good idea to replace them with Moog, before installing the new arms in the vehicle, (much easier to do it on the bench). Front chassis ride height must be adjusted BEFORE doing the alignment.

 

Replaced the vent solenoid, not too bad a job and like others on this forum, I had to take the bracket holding it off to access the clip at the rear of the filter housing to remove the solenoid et all. After 25 kilometers the light is still out and no more codes on the tester. The fuel filter was a different story, unbenounced to me she had taken the vehicle to a Jiffy Lube (generic) a few years ago and had the fuel filter replaced( I think I was in camp at the time), They replaced it but in so doing had just cut the strap holding it in position, now I have to fabricate a bracket to hold it up, It is tye wrapped in position for now. At least the nut still had all its corners.