here might be another clue less than 500 miles ago I changed out the factory plugs and wires, cap and rotor at same time I changed the oil. the plugs were really worn, I was real careful change the plugs so nothing fell inside. #3 was really worn I mean really worn. if you can go by the factory gauge the oil pressure runs about 40 when it hot and 50 to 55 when its cold. 35 mile run Saturday I had to make a quick stop and it dropped to about 30 to 35. Prior to this oil change I had been running the 5 w30 straight (no additives) in the summer time when the oil would get about 2500 miles on it some times the pressure would drop down to 20 at stops but run at 40 most of the time. we would change the oil and it would go back to about 40 again. a year ago I stuck oil bottle of catrol syntech in with a oil change and the oil pressure seemed to run lower, I switched back to straight 5w30 and things went back to normal for it. one other time I tried straight 10w30 I had good pressure but I got other rattles and switched back again at the next oil change. I have not had the valve covers off the oil since we had it has never been black its been dark but never black. this lifter tap was all the sudden.

 

I'll share my thoughts. I used Lucas in recent years in two different engines. One was a 460 Ford that I ran to 200,000 miles before I sold it. The other was our 97 Blazer that I drove to about 180,000 miles then sold it. Both engines I ran 20-50 Valvoline & Lucas.
Many years ago when STP was the popular motor honey, I learned a valuable lesson from an old mechanic. He taught me when I use these motor honeys I first needed to change the oil & filter if it had one. Leave the oil low a quart or pint depending on how much honey I was adding. Start the engine & get it to operating temp. Heat up the honey on the exhaust manifold or in the hot sun. With the engine running add the hot honey to the warm engine. Then take it for a 10 or 20 mile run never shutting off the engine. That way the honey got mixed into the oil. Once it is mixed in thoroughly it doesn't separate. If you just dump it in a cold engine it ends up in the pan & oil passages. It never really gets mixed with the oil. Now I'm sure there are some who will say I'm full of S--T but I replaced a few engines in my days & I remember a few that honey was added in cold engines & when I tore them down the oil passages would be clogged kind of like when they show ads on TV for plugged up blood veins from fat.
You need to see if you are getting good oil to your rocker arms. Just adding Lucas or heavy oil will not cause lifters to start making noise. Now if you just poured it in cold you may of plugged the oil passages enough to cause noise but I doubt that. Noisy lifters could be because they are bleeding off, starved for oil, or are getting wore out.
I run 10-40 in all my vehicles. I have not had an oil problem or engine problem in years. The last time I had an engine failure was because of a lack of oil. That was in the 60s. We use to run drain oil because we didn't have money for gas & oil. I would pour drain oil in my car through an oil rag to get out any metal shavings or clumps of carbon. When we had money we used reclaimed oil $.16 a quart.

 

I dont understand why people cannot grasp the concept of the oil pump bypass pressure in relation to rpm.

I just asked a simple question: When your engine is warm at what rpm do you see the maximum pressure on your oil gauge? I dont care WHAT the numbers are, they arent accurate.. what counts is the highest reading when the engine is warm, running 5w30. And at what rpm that happens.

As your oil 'wears out', bearings wear or oil becomes contaminated, it takes higher rpm to reach peak pressure.

 

when the engine is warm (195+) at 2000 to2200 RPM's it's showing about 45 - 50 psi

 

Okay. And to finish the thought, I'm going to assume it doesnt go higher than that with more rpm. Then that's about 60psi, actual.

I'm gonna WAG and say you have some bearing damage or wear. But the fact your pressure at idle is peak - 20 psi says it's not too bad and not worth a rebuild

It really would help if you pulled a valve cover and did a fingernail scrape of suspicious buildups, both the head corners and inside valve cover.

 

"It really would help if you pulled a valve cover and did a fingernail scrape of suspicious buildups, both the head corners and inside valve cover."

what would I be looking for? blockage in the drains? do you think oil is getting trapped in the valve covers? what are your suspicion?

 

Look for anything.. there shouldnt be any sludge buildup.
If there is, and you are as punctual on service as you say...change brands.

 

is it easy to lift the valve caps and do i need new gaskets

 

Any time you pull valve covers, no matter what the gaskets are made of, good idea to have a set handy.
You only need do 1 side to check it out for 'clean' either the easiest.. or the side that leaks some.

 

easy to get it off...? take off intake, throttle body , ignition coil, ... whats the replace torque spec on the bolts to put back on... if dirty what should i clean it with