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Oil 5w30 or 10w30

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  #21  
Old 04-11-2012, 04:51 PM
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  #22  
Old 04-11-2012, 08:12 PM
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  #23  
Old 04-11-2012, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by mrkevinmjr
Okay... see how that gauge reacts at idle and 1500 rpm. Mine does that exactly, same peak high mark, same pressure at idle. His gauge is accurate to the bypass pressure,
- note idle pressure is just 20 lb lower. but the important part is 'peak at about 1500'. Tells me healthy bearings if he's running 30w

One thing, I'd be checking the battery charging voltage with a DVM, I think it's a little high on the gauge
 

Last edited by pettyfog; 04-11-2012 at 09:15 PM.
  #24  
Old 04-11-2012, 09:39 PM
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yeah i agree about the battery voltage... how can i tune that down.. its a new battery. dont wana damage a 200 dollar battery
 
  #25  
Old 04-20-2012, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by pettyfog
Okay. And to finish the thought, I'm going to assume it doesnt go higher than that with more rpm. Then that's about 60psi, actual.

I'm gonna WAG and say you have some bearing damage or wear. But the fact your pressure at idle is peak - 20 psi says it's not too bad and not worth a rebuild

It really would help if you pulled a valve cover and did a fingernail scrape of suspicious buildups, both the head corners and inside valve cover.
pulled driver's side valve cover, it's really clean except for some moisture build up in the corner and by the PCV valve (light brown slim), no chunks or heavy build ups on the heads or in the valve cover.
 
  #26  
Old 04-20-2012, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by dano440
pulled driver's side valve cover, it's really clean except for some moisture build up in the corner and by the PCV valve (light brown slim), no chunks or heavy build ups on the heads or in the valve cover.
Cool.
The light brown, I'm sure you are aware, is water/oil. since it's only on the PCV valve and in nook places is likely result of short trip driving. ergo, synthetic oil in your application would be a waste. need to change with a good oil -say, valvoline- every 3 months or 3000 whichever comes first.

That's good info to know since it stands to reason that a heavier light brown deposit would be from coolant in the oil.. and show before it does on either the dipstick or filler cap.
Pull pcv, stick little finger in and wipe underside valve cover for evidence.

 
  #27  
Old 04-20-2012, 01:37 PM
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ok Valvoline oil 5W30... what about filter a Wix or Napa Gold or AC? which would you say has the best checkvalve/ anti-backflow properties
 
  #28  
Old 04-20-2012, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by dano440
ok Valvoline oil 5W30... what about filter a Wix or Napa Gold or AC? which would you say has the best checkvalve/ anti-backflow properties
https://blazerforum.com/forum/genera...-prefer-63665/

Read the whole thing including links
 
  #29  
Old 04-20-2012, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by pettyfog
https://blazerforum.com/forum/genera...-prefer-63665/

Read the whole thing including links
ok, I understand now it more about the oil than the filter and how that oil is maintained/used. the last oil change when the ticking/tapping started, I suspected the bleedback or backflow valve in my fram filter I changed it out to a AC Delco PF52C and the next morning the ticking/tapping was less but still there. I must have picked up a bad filter the first time.

thanks for your enlightenment.
 
  #30  
Old 04-20-2012, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by pettyfog
https://blazerforum.com/forum/genera...-prefer-63665/

Read the whole thing including links
I would also like to add. That was interesting read, and understand why you replied the way you did.

after reading all that. I had a little flashback of what a old friend of mine told me when we have the old ford vs. chevy discussions. his reply was "They are all pieces of junk, just that some are better junk than others but not consistently."
 

Last edited by dano440; 04-20-2012 at 06:32 PM.


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