Is this the line that is needed? http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...e=1341&ptset=A

 

I've long used the general rule that you should have at least 10 PSI per thousand RPM at low engine speed, up to whatever maximum your motor runs. 60 PSI at road speed is great - you should be happy. Where you would worry is if you were under 10 PSI at idle.

Most of the 4.3 motors I've seen run in the 40-60 PSI range at normal road speeds, say 2000-3500 RPM.

 

FrankJC.

That looks like the lines that run from the oil filter adapter to the engine and oil pump. I went out this morning and started up my car in the driveway. I live in Utah and it is cold now. Very little leak activity last night in my checks. Warm oil. This morning idling, 5 minutes, it looked like a heart artery had started to develop a possible burst. Cold Oil, increased pressure. The leaks were squirting from those CRAP KRIMP CONNECTIONS. I would like to smack that so called Engineer.
Word of caution. The ones that were replaced on my car when I had the remanufactured motor installed were only about 18 months old. The motor replacement company provided them to me per my request, and gave me the additional cost, and as I figure, they provided the lowest priced ones that were in the market place. I still have the 06/28/2005 receipt for the adder. They charged me $95 for that set of lines, which is about what I paid today for the new OE lines. I would suggest that you buy top of the line OE. I was charged $98 for the same lines today, but they were OE and my mechanic purchased them from the Dealer. He mentioned that the old lines were probably lower quality. With estimated 2 hr labor, probably only took them 45 min., @ $70.00/ hr, total bill was around $265.00 with tax. I did not want to tackle those lines.

Rooster was right. The mechanic said that they are not easy and that you have to raise the engine to get in there to do it. When I read that, I decided to have them do the replacing. I would consider replacing the front adapter to radiator hoses myself.

If someone would give instructions for us dumbies for replacement of the adapter to radiator hoses, it would be much appreciated. I have a feeling that those will be next.

Thanks all!

 

I took a look under there tonight. I think I can do it myself (weather permitting). When jacking up the engine, is it safe to put a block under the oil pan, and jack it from there, or is there a better way?
The dealer I do business with told me the lines were about $90, and they stock them. He also said that sometimes the seals leak at the ends on the lines. I know this is not the case with mine. I see oil at the crimped fittings. It's a shame I can't just re-crimp them.
I think I may have also had a leak at the oil filter. There was a drip where the filter meets the adapter, and it appered that the oil was dripping down on the access door, then onto the splash shield. I tightened the filter, wiped it off and took it for a ride. I didn't see another drip afterwards.

 

all of you should change them yourselves, they realley aren't that hard to do. save on the labor cost. but 90 or so dollars sounds high to me unless thats for both. when u raise then engine make sure u use a nice flat wide 2x4/ or 2x6 and all u need to do is raise it a slight amount, just enough to allow passage of the lines past the motor mount.

 

I am going to change mine. I picked up the new ones today. I discovered that there was infact a leak at the oil filter. The lines are definately starting to leak at the fittings, so they will be replaced. Did someone mention that you don't have to remove the bolt from the motor mount when you jack up the motor? I didn't get a good look at it last time I was under there. I will say this, the blazer is ALOT easier to work on than my lincoln.

 

leave the bolt on u should have enough play within the mount to push the engine up. u have to understand, u only need a slight bit of clearance to remove and put in the new lines without damaging the fittimgs

 

Thanks Rooster.

 

My lines are very wet from oil too, but I havnt really worried about it lol.

 

yea but think about this, u may not be loosing alot of oil but since the leak is on the hose that goes to the filter are u really getting all the oil to the filter! they are cheap and easy enough and will definitly save on further damages due to lack of pressure and proper flow.