Oil Line, Block Side
#1
Oil Line, Block Side
How are you suppose to take off the oil line from block to filter?
98 Blazer 4dr 4x4
So theres a "block" like thing where the hard line hose bolts onto at the engine block, then that bolts onto the engine block. Cant get at the hose bolts, but I can unbolt the 2 vertical bolts on the "block thing", unbloted the filter connection bolts, unbolted the rubber/metal clamp. Along with the 2 "skid plates", cant believe they used torx bolts on the TC plate.
Cant slide the assembly out, without unbolting and lowering the transfercase. Theres got to be an easier way, how do you get at the hose bolts on the engine block side?
I think mine might be leaking from that area. I can easily enough cut the hose, take out the metal crimp leaving the nub, and rehose it and use clamps. If I am going to do this I want to make damn sure it aint going to leak again. Its frustrating, was on my back today at the junk yard on a 98 Jimmy getting all greasey, wet and cold.
Almost had a F-it moment and wanted to slam 20 beers back. Decided not to.
98 Blazer 4dr 4x4
So theres a "block" like thing where the hard line hose bolts onto at the engine block, then that bolts onto the engine block. Cant get at the hose bolts, but I can unbolt the 2 vertical bolts on the "block thing", unbloted the filter connection bolts, unbolted the rubber/metal clamp. Along with the 2 "skid plates", cant believe they used torx bolts on the TC plate.
Cant slide the assembly out, without unbolting and lowering the transfercase. Theres got to be an easier way, how do you get at the hose bolts on the engine block side?
I think mine might be leaking from that area. I can easily enough cut the hose, take out the metal crimp leaving the nub, and rehose it and use clamps. If I am going to do this I want to make damn sure it aint going to leak again. Its frustrating, was on my back today at the junk yard on a 98 Jimmy getting all greasey, wet and cold.
Almost had a F-it moment and wanted to slam 20 beers back. Decided not to.
#2
Here's what I did on my '98 Jimmy: unbolt the hose fitting from the oil filter adapter. To do that, run a long extension with the appropriate socket and a universal joint in from the front. That should give you a way to remove the bolt. With that part disconnected you caa pull the lines forward along the side of the block and remove them. Your truck may have a loop holding the lines to the side of the block. If so, remove it.
With that out of the way you can unbolt the adapter from the bottom of the block. You may need to remove the front drive shaft from the differential to have clearance. Once you have room you can rotate the adapter and drop it straight down.
While everything is disconnected you should clean all surfaces and replace all gaskets and seals. If you look through the forums here and on the other S-10 sites you should be able to find some other descriptions of the procedure which may be helpful.
With that out of the way you can unbolt the adapter from the bottom of the block. You may need to remove the front drive shaft from the differential to have clearance. Once you have room you can rotate the adapter and drop it straight down.
While everything is disconnected you should clean all surfaces and replace all gaskets and seals. If you look through the forums here and on the other S-10 sites you should be able to find some other descriptions of the procedure which may be helpful.
#3
Easiest thing to do is unbolt the lines so they're completely free, then put a 2x4 block of wood on a jack and raise the motor up. You dont even have to jack it up a whole inch, just about a half inch... The lines will be totally free. Dont worry about unbolting the motor mount, I did and realized it didnt even move out of place. Hope this post wasn't too late!
#4
Easiest thing to do is unbolt the lines so they're completely free, then put a 2x4 block of wood on a jack and raise the motor up. You dont even have to jack it up a whole inch, just about a half inch... The lines will be totally free. Dont worry about unbolting the motor mount, I did and realized it didnt even move out of place. Hope this post wasn't too late!
#5
Not too late, was planning on a temporary fix of ziplock bag wrapped around blue shop paper towel then zip tied.
Another idea I had was to snip the rubber hose, and see if I could take it out rearword. New gasket on whatever that thing is on the block, and buy some new hose, and clamp it.
I will tell you this, when I was trying to undo it originally, the vehicle itself was up on blocks in the junkyard. So the wheels were just hanging loose. But the pushing the engine upward, hopefully works. I cant picture it in my head. Push engine up, bolted to frame. Guess theres a bit of squeeze on the mounts. Just enough 1/2" you say. Might work. Good enough to give it a try.
Renting a Do-It-Yourself bay one of these days.
Going to pound out
- Remote Oil Line
- Pitman/Idler Arm
- Bushings
- Brake Pads
- Brake Rotors
- Parking Brake
Another idea I had was to snip the rubber hose, and see if I could take it out rearword. New gasket on whatever that thing is on the block, and buy some new hose, and clamp it.
I will tell you this, when I was trying to undo it originally, the vehicle itself was up on blocks in the junkyard. So the wheels were just hanging loose. But the pushing the engine upward, hopefully works. I cant picture it in my head. Push engine up, bolted to frame. Guess theres a bit of squeeze on the mounts. Just enough 1/2" you say. Might work. Good enough to give it a try.
Renting a Do-It-Yourself bay one of these days.
Going to pound out
- Remote Oil Line
- Pitman/Idler Arm
- Bushings
- Brake Pads
- Brake Rotors
- Parking Brake
#6
The remote oil lines have by far been the worst thing I've had to do on my Blazer. Said I would never do them again after I got it done. Then they started leaking again, I mean POURING oil out! Turns out the o-ring gaskets I had didn't work. So I had to do it a second time. This time, I had the proper "figure 8" gasket, and it hasn't leaked since.
So get the right gasket!
And the bolt holding the lines to the adapter on the block is TERRIBLE to get to! Stack a bunch of extensions, maybe a swivel, and curse alot. You'll finally get it.
So get the right gasket!
And the bolt holding the lines to the adapter on the block is TERRIBLE to get to! Stack a bunch of extensions, maybe a swivel, and curse alot. You'll finally get it.
#7
How are you suppose to take off the oil line from block to filter?
98 Blazer 4dr 4x4
So theres a "block" like thing where the hard line hose bolts onto at the engine block, then that bolts onto the engine block. Cant get at the hose bolts, but I can unbolt the 2 vertical bolts on the "block thing", unbloted the filter connection bolts, unbolted the rubber/metal clamp. Along with the 2 "skid plates", cant believe they used torx bolts on the TC plate.
Cant slide the assembly out, without unbolting and lowering the transfercase. Theres got to be an easier way, how do you get at the hose bolts on the engine block side?
I think mine might be leaking from that area. I can easily enough cut the hose, take out the metal crimp leaving the nub, and rehose it and use clamps. If I am going to do this I want to make damn sure it aint going to leak again. Its frustrating, was on my back today at the junk yard on a 98 Jimmy getting all greasey, wet and cold.
Almost had a F-it moment and wanted to slam 20 beers back. Decided not to.
98 Blazer 4dr 4x4
So theres a "block" like thing where the hard line hose bolts onto at the engine block, then that bolts onto the engine block. Cant get at the hose bolts, but I can unbolt the 2 vertical bolts on the "block thing", unbloted the filter connection bolts, unbolted the rubber/metal clamp. Along with the 2 "skid plates", cant believe they used torx bolts on the TC plate.
Cant slide the assembly out, without unbolting and lowering the transfercase. Theres got to be an easier way, how do you get at the hose bolts on the engine block side?
I think mine might be leaking from that area. I can easily enough cut the hose, take out the metal crimp leaving the nub, and rehose it and use clamps. If I am going to do this I want to make damn sure it aint going to leak again. Its frustrating, was on my back today at the junk yard on a 98 Jimmy getting all greasey, wet and cold.
Almost had a F-it moment and wanted to slam 20 beers back. Decided not to.
#8
The plan was to use one from the junkyard and replace the hoses and gasket.
It was a two-fold plan, practice on junker before I work on mine, and I could be easily mobile to go to different stores to find the best hoses for my money.
When my blazer is up on the hoist at the DIY garage, with hoses out = no can drive anywhere! I know what size of hose it is now. Just got to book my hoist.
It was a two-fold plan, practice on junker before I work on mine, and I could be easily mobile to go to different stores to find the best hoses for my money.
When my blazer is up on the hoist at the DIY garage, with hoses out = no can drive anywhere! I know what size of hose it is now. Just got to book my hoist.
#10
The plan was to use one from the junkyard and replace the hoses and gasket.
It was a two-fold plan, practice on junker before I work on mine, and I could be easily mobile to go to different stores to find the best hoses for my money.
When my blazer is up on the hoist at the DIY garage, with hoses out = no can drive anywhere! I know what size of hose it is now. Just got to book my hoist.
It was a two-fold plan, practice on junker before I work on mine, and I could be easily mobile to go to different stores to find the best hoses for my money.
When my blazer is up on the hoist at the DIY garage, with hoses out = no can drive anywhere! I know what size of hose it is now. Just got to book my hoist.