btw i will be posting pics of the whole process since the HAYNES manual doesnt show CRAP! not even a picture of the oil pump itself lol

 

HAYNES doesnt show you nothing, i bought it thinking it show me how to pull my motor, it didnt, i figured it out all by myself with some help from my girlfriends father.

 

1 second worth of lack of oil flow is too much and can severely shorten the life of the bearings. 5 minutes is an eternity. Like I said, I hope everything goes well.

 

If money is the issue, you might be better off getting a $400 used engine from a u-pull-it yard. I wouldn't bother buying any parts though until you pull the engine, open it up, and find out exactly what needs to be replaced/is damaged/worn out. Then you can get a better idea if fixing all the stuff is cost effective vs. just getting another used motor. If you buy the parts ahead of time, then Murphy's law says it will nickle-and-dime you to death until you'll have spent more than the other options would have cost...

Terry

 

good luck finding a motor for that cheap with lower miles that doesnt have any problems, i have been searching for about a month and a half now and still have not found one for under 800 bucks withless than 90,000 miles. everyone is statchin those motors up, i know 7 guys that have blown there 4.3's up in the past 3 months.

 

all depends where you are, they are all over the place here.

 

Have you tried http://car-part.com? I checked MI/OH area and found25 2001/2002 V6 blazer engines under $699with less than 90,000 miles. I didn't even try to expand the search to other years. Where I am in PA you can get them for even less at the local u-pull-it yards, with a warranty (usually 30 days) too.

Even if you had to pay $1K for a good used engine, it's still cheaper than having aquality rebuild done on your engine. If you do it yourself, you could save some $$ but you'd better know what you're doing first.

 

today i checked the code that came back up after i restarted it the day i stopped at the light as shut it off sure as **** that damn P1345 code came back.... would that lead anyone to believe that the oil pump is the cause of the code ?? like its draggin on the disty throwing it off some?

 

P1345 - CKP/CMP Correlation

Was anything else replaced? If either the CKP (crank position) sensor or CMP (camshaft position) sensor was replaced, a crankshaft variation learn procedure may need to be done (tech2 or equivalent scan tool required). This code indicates that it needs a learn procedure done...

The oil pump should not have any impact on the distributor unless the roll pin holding the gear to the shaft at the base of the distributor has partially sheered, but that should cause performance issues...

 

i replaced the disty and it came with a new cmp in it ... and untill the oil pressure dropped to nothing the code was gone