2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech Discuss 2nd generation S-series (1995-2005) general tech topics here.

Over Heats, can't figure it out

  #1  
Old 04-20-2013, 03:05 PM
Starting Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 2
D Johnston is on a distinguished road
Default Over Heats, can't figure it out

I have a 2000 Chevy Blazer 2WD, 2 door with A/C, Automatic trans. I have recently replaced the fan clutch, removed the thermostat, and flushed the system. The water pump was replaced with a new, not rebulit one about a year ago. I have no leaks that I can find. Engine runs great. Heater blows cold. It seems to heat up to about 230 degrees. I know it should run cooler than that. I am not a mechanic by any means. I was hoping someone might have a clue as to how to proceed to make it stop. It gets warmer going up hills and will cool back down to about 230 while descending the hill. Any ideas?
 
  #2  
Old 04-20-2013, 03:19 PM
warthogdriver's Avatar
BF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Bay City, Michigan
Posts: 2,785
warthogdriver is a jewel in the roughwarthogdriver is a jewel in the roughwarthogdriver is a jewel in the roughwarthogdriver is a jewel in the rough
Default

with your heater blowing cold it sounds like your cooling system is plugged up at the heater core. with the truck warmed up check both your lines running to the heater core. i am guessing one of the lines is hot and one stone cold. try flushing the lines if they are plugged up.
 
  #3  
Old 04-20-2013, 10:56 PM
WitchingHour's Avatar
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Posts: 251
WitchingHour is an unknown quantity at this point
Default

Yeah, I'd have to concur with warthogdriver. You'll want to backflush your heater core. Rather than explaining the process, I'll let a Youtube video do that for me:


That's pretty much what I do, except I use a homemade air chuck, made with some 1/4" pipe, threaded into a corresponding lever actuated valve, rather than mess with the vice grips, and I just use a hose clamp to secure it instead of screwing around with the electrical tape.
 
  #4  
Old 04-21-2013, 09:36 AM
Starting Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 237
dobyken is on a distinguished road
Default

Although the heater core might be plugged I think it's more likely that some of the channels in your radiator are plugged....most often at the bottom. Crud sinks and eventually clogs those little slits. Normal flushing will not clear them and a chemical flush might not even do it. When your truck is hot turn off the engine and feel the radiator fins. If they are hot at the top and cool on the bottom then that's the problem. A couple of times I've been able to remove a radiator and tap it upside down to remove some crud but most of the time it's easier to just replace it. There's a bypass on the heater core so it shouldn't make the engine overheat. Proof...people clamp off the heater lines when they have a core leak.
 
  #5  
Old 04-21-2013, 09:59 AM
warthogdriver's Avatar
BF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Bay City, Michigan
Posts: 2,785
warthogdriver is a jewel in the roughwarthogdriver is a jewel in the roughwarthogdriver is a jewel in the roughwarthogdriver is a jewel in the rough
Default

^^^that could be it to. I know when my rad cracked i tore it apart .....full of mud looking sludge
 
  #6  
Old 04-21-2013, 03:00 PM
New Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 6
macbeth765 is on a distinguished road
Default Clogging in both radiators.

I had similar trouble last year. I replaced my radiator after battling with it over heating issues due to its decade old age instead of wasting time and money on cleaners. The same gunk that was prevalent in my radiator was also gumming up my heater core. Your engine would run at normal temp with a new radiator, but still blow cold if the heater core was blocked. So sounds like a two step problem. The radiator is easier to access and replace, but the heater core is a pain to replace. The EricTheCarGuy vid posted above would help clear a heater core, however if its an exceptionally old and gummed up heater core I would be gentle with the pressure you put through it. The last thing you want is to blow a hole in your heater core and then have to contend with the smell of coolant till you work up the courage to replace it(i.e. happened to me).

In the long run, replace the radiator and be done with it if a flush with cleaner doesn't break anything loose. And be gentle with flushing your heater core or you will become an expert on how to remove your entire dashboard. Best of luck.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jack88cannon
Engine & Transmission
3
08-22-2015 05:39 AM
ceo84139
Engine & Transmission
4
05-22-2014 01:39 PM
BobTheBlazer
1st Generation S-series (1983-1994) Tech
18
12-27-2009 11:01 PM
ant22
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
14
04-07-2006 05:21 PM
JVS
Full Size K5 (1969-1991) GMT415 (1992-1994) Tech
7
06-12-2005 11:00 PM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Over Heats, can't figure it out


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

© 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands