Good day guys,
i have been struggling for over a year now to get my park brake to work, but with no success.
I religned the park brake shoes,did the hardware kit as well as replacing the handbrake cable.
(Mine uses the ratchet lever between the front seats)
I recently found out the Mitsubishi Pajero and the Outlander uses a similar system on their park
brakes but looks a bit more "beefy".
Has anyone here try this before or am i trying my luck here.

Kindest Regards

 

I have a foot-pedal for my brakes but what I learned (the hard/long way) I think could be useful. What I learned is that you have to carefully adjust the shoes so that when they are released, they just barely not touch the shoes. It took me several tries to get it right. Even the dealer missed this.

When doing the adjustment, I was sure to disconnect the cable and then after each adjustment I would reinstall the rotor/drum and pull on the lever to recenter the shoes to better check the gap.

At the time I only had the Chilton manual and noticed that the pictures for the park-brake shoes was UPSIDE DOWN!

I'm attaching the instructions from the 1999 GM service manual. Look at page 5-122 for the adjustment procedure.

 

I think you just solved a long time issue i've had with mine not working.Thanks Christine.

 

You're welcome!

With the headaches I had with it, I did not want anyone else to suffer unnecessarily.

As I hinted at, I had the dealer adjust it for me and when I got it back it was worse! Then when I took it back (~20 miles round trip) it still barely worked, This led to me spending an afternoon trying to reverse engineer the system for myself. It also had me swear off using the dealer for anything except parts and perhaps some maintenance items I could never do myself and trust anyone else to do. At the moment I can't think of anything I could think I would have them do! LOL

Some hints:

• To get the adjustment right, make sure the cable at the rear parking brake mechanisms is SLACK. It is probably best to have them slack at both at the same time.
• Adjust the shoes so that with the rotor and tire back on, the rear tire will only rotate with friction. Then back off the adjuster bit by bit until it will rotate with hardly any rubbing. When you get close, it might take a couple adjustments back and forth to get it right.
• Each time the adjustment is made, pull on the park brake cable to recenter the shoes within the drum before rotating the tire to check for clearance. This will prevent any false indications that the shoes are rubbing. Once re-centered, any rubbing you hear can go away.
• Preliminary adjustments could likely be made with only the rotor back on but for final adjustments I would recommend putting the tire back on since it has more inertia and will help with the spinning test.

After you do your adjustments on each rear tire, go find a steep slope and check if the parking brake holds.

I know many folks don't even use their parking brake and instead just throw the transmission into Park. Having grown up near Seattle where we have steep hills I learned to never put the transmission into Park before setting the parking brake. Then when I got a boat, having a parking brake that works on the launch ramp became doubly important to me.

BTW, learning which way to point the front tires when parallel parking on a hill with and without a curb is a big part of drivers ed where I grew up.

 

I don't live that far away. How much will you charge me??????? LOL

 

Thank you Christine.
I have tried this many many times but with no luck.
Hence the reason i'm asking if someone tried the Mitsubishi route.
I will however try one more time, if i don't succeed i will most def try the Mitsubishi brakes and try to mock up something.

Kindest regards

 

Flat fee: $10,000! LOL

 

You're welcome and good luck. Be sure to post back to report what worked or did not work.

 

Sounds like a down payment on a 2019 Blazer....;-)