This was a big issue earlier on. I would go to start the truck and the security light would come on and of course no start. Got stranded a few times like that.

But every single time if I waited a bit it would start (most of the time), if it didn't I would just hit the steering column a couple times and it would work, but the security light stays on.

Eventually I had the idea maybe something is loose in the steering column so I took the top cover off and one 3-wire plug that goes into the ignition switch was plugged in, but wiggled a lot in the plug. With the cover off it almost never strands me anymore, if it doesnt start usually wiggling the plug works.

This is all fine but still the security light is on and it looks like I stole it driving around with the steering column open. Is the whole problem in that little plug or is my Passlock system just broken?

I did a little research on the system and found info about little resistors being on the key, my key has no resistor. Further research revealed that plug is just to check the resistance of that resistor, I wondered why mine worked at all with no resistor. Completely unplugging it always results in no start. Shoving a random variable resistor between the appropriate wires and having it set close to the low extreme of the resistor results in reliable starting even when unplugged but defeats the whole purpose of the Passlock system.

If anyone knows wtf is going on here, please let me know. Something tells me you shouldn't be able to start a vehicle by removing the steering column cover, putting a variable resistor between two wires, popping the ignition switch (actual switch part) away from the lock cylinder and rotating it, but sure enough thats whats going on here.

EDIT: Lol I just realized this makes the life of a car thief look anti-climactic. It's not like in the movies where you have to do elaborate rewiring based on absolutely no prior knowledge of the vehicle.

 

This was an issue on my 98'. About every 100 starts, it would lock itself, and I would have to wait 15 minutes for everything to unlock before being able to start...this meant lost time at work, school, etc...ended up having to replace the actual ignition. My mechanic at the time told me it was because I had waaaaay too much crap on my keychain, and it created a void...if for any reason I put the key in at the wrong angle, it read it as a screwdriver, and would lock itself...I drove it for 4 months after the diagnosis before repairing it, and well...he was right (for my case).


Hope this helps...

 

My key is just a key lol, no keychain.

It hasn't refused to start in a while, but I have to keep that top cover off the steering column. The security light stays on too.

 

I've battled this problem as well. Some people have resolved it by replacing the ignition switch wiring harness, 80 bucks at the parts store.

Additional information can be found at the s10 forums and most likely on here too. I just havent looked for it here.

There are several remedys to this issue and several possible causes. Likely causes are ignition switch harness failure or an issue with the rest of the wiring harness, loose spliced wire, ect.

I currently have my cover removed as well and can provide pics if needed. The connector you mentioned that plugs into the ignition switch near the ignition tumbler should have three wires on it. One yellow, one red/white, one black/orange. The yellow wire is the main passlock wire. If you cut this wire while the truck is running,***the truck must be running*** it will disable the passlock on subsequent restarts. The security light will remain on constantly, but passlock will be disabled and you will not have to deal with the issue again, unless you have a battery (power)failure. As a fail safe, a simple on/off toggle switch can be installed between the cut yellow passlock wire and enabled (in the event of a power failure or battery failure, resulting in the reset of the PCM) I have my switch routed into the ashtray compartment from behind.

I had this problem, and it progressed to the point that the truck was no longer reliable and so i started researching.

Ultimately, i opted for the toggle switch solution for several reasons:
1) my main wiring harness had a remote start/secuity system wired into it when i bought the truck (6 years ago), so the harness is butchered and pieced back together after I had the aftermarket wiring removed. I had the wiring removed about 2 years into my ownship of the truck becayse of the securty light coming on at random and activating the passlock and preventing a startup until i waited for 10 minutes. It only happened a few times a year but was annoying enough to try to get it resolved. Removing the aftermarket wiring harness didnt help as I had hoped it would. I continued to have the issue and it was becoming more and more frequent. Since the main harness has been spliced and put back together, i figure the replacement ignition switch harness will not help.

2) I have an issue with the SES light regarding a Secondary Air Injection Pump. I've had the pump replaced, the hoses that route from the pump to the engine, ect and done extensive research online about the problem. It seems to keep recurring in high humidity climates and prevents me from being able to pass emissions tests. The Ultimate solution for the air pump is to have someone remove the air pump trouble codes from the PCM. So i'm planning on doing this and having the VATS (vehicle anti theft system) removed as well.

Obviously, in your case, if you feel the connector is the problem, if you want to spend the 80 bucks, replace the ignition switch and see if that resolves it.

I cut the wire and wired the toggle switch into my truck 2 weeks ago and havent had a problem since. Before I did this, I was lucky to get it started at all.

Links about the passlock issue:

Written for a grand am, but a great informative site:
http://www.bergerweb.net/grandamsecurityfix.htm

Passlock relearn procedure:
http://www.fixya.com/cars/t4274832-own_2007_gmc

Wiring information:
http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew...ngdiagrams.asp

Discussion about a similar problem:
http://chevroletforum.com/forum/arch...hp/t-3610.html