I finished up my '98 Jimmy just in time. Now my wife's 2000 Blazer is having troubles. She was driving down the freeway at 65mph and something happened and the truck started shuddering and she pulled over and had it towed home.

I checked out the truck today. I couldn't get the truck to move more than about 100' before it would start shuddering and be extremely hard to move. At one point it completely stopped and I put it in neutral and tried to push it and it did not move.

The first thing I looked at were the rear brakes. I thought perhaps a caliper were hanging up. The rear brakes were just fine. The pistons moved just fine in the calipers and there was no scoring or other unusual wear on the rotors. I spun the axle shafts on each side and there was no noise or rough feeling. I took the drive shaft off the pinion yoke and turned the yoke by hand. It was extremely rough and there was a very loud grinding sound. While turning the yoke it would move in and out about 1/8". There doesn't seem to be any lateral play in the shaft.

I noticed that there was oil on the bottom of the differential and all over everything around the pinion shaft seal. The underside of the truck directly above was oily. I even pulled the rear cover off and there was only about an ounce of oil that came out. I suspect that the oil seal failed and it slung the oil out all over the underside of the truck and that led to the failure somewhere inside the differential.

What do I do now? I don't think I have the tools or skills to rebuild the differential myself. I doubt I can handle the process of getting a proper pre-load on the pinion shaft bearing. What I've read of it seems complicated. If I take it to a shop for an axle rebuild would I have to remove the axle from the truck or can it be rebuilt while it's still installed? Is there any advantage to having it rebuilt over just finding a compatible axle in a wrecking yard and replacing it?

 

It may not need a complete rebuild.

You may just be able to replace the pinion shaft bearing depending on how much damage was done running it low on oil. The bearing itself would cost around $90.00. I don't know how many hours labor they would charge to put it in but I would bank on at least 2 so you are at roughly $290.00 right there. They do not need to remove the rear end from the Blazer to rebuild it.

It may be cheaper to get a used rear end but you would have to make sure that the gearing is the same as what you have if your wife's Blazer is a 4x4. It may also be tough to find one that is in good shape.

 

bro,honestly id just go pull a diff out of a blazer at a pull it yourself yard. i googled your area,and there is a pick n pull in lakewood. a whole diff is like 150 bucks and to get it out there just cut the u bolts off,remove brake lines and driveshaft and its out. buy new u bolts,and fluid. $200 job complete. JUst make sure gear ratios are the same, and if u have 4wd make sure its from a 4wd. etc which is easy.

 

^x2^ I was thinking the same thing as I was reading the OP and then I read what chris wrote and that seams to be the most logical way to go! No special tools or knowledge needed

 

im so fly.

all you need is
a set of wrenchs,
socket set,
prybar for w.e,
12 12 ounce cans of beautiful hops and barley.

 

I would agree a junkyard axle would be easiest.
Just make sure if yours is 4x4 it's out of a 4x4 or 2wd/2wd.
The gear ratio should be the same. The RPO code will be G somthing. Can't remeber now I think GU or GT with a number following. Just match the numbers. Unless it has been regeard it's the same. G80 is the factory locker.

 

I've done all the research. It's a GU6 with 3.42 gears. I'm pretty sure I could find a good used axle around here. Western Washington is full of S/T series trucks and SUVs.

The part I'm worried about is setting up the pinion shaft correctly. From what I've read it's a delicate process that takes some specialized tools. I don't want to learn the hard way that I did it wrong, especially since it's the wife's DD. My couch is not comfortable enough to want to sleep on.

 

That's why we are suggesting that you swap the entire axle not just the internals. Swap the entire thing and be done. It's a bolt and go alternative will no special tools required.

 

he might be referring to the pinion angle as well,which needs to be a certain degree. IF i was you id grab the diff with leaf springs still attached,so you dont have to worry about it.

 

^This makes sense lol!^