Okay after doing several searches through the fourms and google, I've found some topics that were similar yet not helpful.
Back ground info:
1997 blazer lt 4 door

Symptoms:

Drivers door will not lock with electric locks, I can lock manually. This all started when my driver door started to sag because of the hinge bushes were bad. I replaced them and now I can only get the door to unlock with the power locks. I can see and hear that it gets a pulse to lock the drivers door but nothing happens. (I repeat that the power locks will work fine with all of the other doors, it ONLY will not lock the driver door).

Also, my lift gate controls from the rear of my rig do not work. I am referring to the key lock on the tailgate. I've played around with it and noticed a fuse was bad on the fuse panel located between the drivers door and dash. I think it was the fuse that said "convn" or something like that. I replaced it and then I the rear hatch controls started working but it came with other problems, the interior lights remain on, thus draining my battery. I had to pull the fuse again because of that and wanted feedback if anyone have information as to why this is occurring.

Thanks for inputs and hope to hear from anyone that have had these problems and will fill me in how they fixed them.

 

The light staying on is probably due to the pin-switch being broken or not hitting the window glass on the tailgate, or maybe one of the door pin-switches. There should be a black plastic pin-switch beside the latch and on the dash for the front doors that turns off the interior light when the door is closed.

As for diagnosing your front door lock, you're going to need to pull the interior door panel off and check to make sure that the door actuator didn't get unplugged or disconnected when you were working on the door hinge pins. Once it's off you can see exactly what's happening.

 

Thanks, I will take your advice about the tailgate and I think I left out some information about my drivers door.

Prior to my door hinge bushing being replaced, my door started to have issues because I had to either slam the door shut very hard or yank on the door to close it all the way. Few days before I fixed my door hinge bushings my door started having issues, the first thing that happened was that the door handle actually came apart (just the bolts), so it was just dangling around. Then the door became incredible hard to open from the inside and now it opens better but not like normal. I have to pull the handle as far as I can then push the door open either with leg or shoulder something with a little force.

As far as I can understand reaching into my door panel is that everything seems to be hooked up like it should. When I hit the switches to lock/unlock the door it will only unlock and I can manually unlock/lock the door just fine. The only thing the door will not do is lock with the lock button.

I appreciate all info and advice.
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[This is off topic]
El_Beautor -- I love your truck :

 

Thanks! It's a slow build but I really like my Blazer. Hopefully this spring I'll be able to take care of some rust and put bedliner on my rocker panels. Then I'll be really happy with it.

Does the lock actuator in your drivers door actually try to lock when you push the button? if it tries unsucessfully to move, it's either binding on something or the acutator is wearing out and needs to be replaced. If it doesn't do anything at all then it's likely a wiring problem. It could be a broke wire, or even the switch plug slightly pulled out. It could also be the switch having a problem. My old Montana van had a very similar problem that was fixed with a replacement switch from Pick-n-Pull.

 

Alright, I will check out the wiring again and run some more tests later today. I will let you know how it goes.

Also, I know from reading about the sagging door and changing the bushings/pins, there was a lot concern for the door having problems with locking properly because the locking parts would have added stress. Thus, having them either getting bent or in need of replacement.

I thought it made sense in my case because my driver's door opens as if it has a auto door popper. Its not smooth as all, once you lift the handle the door just pops out as if it were being held under pressure.

Anyway I will check all of the wiring and check for corrosion on connections and grounds.

 

The door popping out is not normal, and could quite possibly be the problem. If the door is putting too much pressure on the lock mechanism it won't function properly. If you've replaced your door pin bushings and it's still acting like this you probably have something bent in the door or hinges.

 

Okay, that's what I was thinking, since I looked all around inside the panel and all connections seems intact. I even unplugged and plugged them back up still nothing. I was afraid that it is probably something that has bent. I did notice there is some deep scored marks on the lock part that's bolted to the body of the blazer. [Can't remember what its called]
Can I replace the entire lock mechanism [well obviously I can..] but I was referring to replacing it with out needing a new key made. Does anyone know of the part number of just the lock mechanism?

 

Okay, I have been driving without the fuse plugged in #4 for a while now and I am tired of it. So I have recently started to poke around in my door and noticed the locking mechanism moves a lot when I try to lock the door with the button and if I hold down the lock mechanism it will work a little but not locking the door completely. If anyone could possible make a quick video or inspect their drivers door and let me know how much it moves while locking and unlocking the door it would be very much appreciated.

Next for the dome lights and other interior lights staying on.. I've heard of two things happening (1) the door is not making a complete ground to the rest of the blazer and (2) that the door pins are not working properly. Well I know my pins are okay and I will be experimenting with some cables to temporarily ground the door to the blazer to see if that solves the issue for the lights. I feel it could just be the ground issue since I removed the door to replace the door hinge bushings and could have messed up the grounds to the door while replacing them.

Thanks everyone!

 

I'm having a similar issue with my driver door. The door was sagging so it was not meshing well with the door strike on the body. Eventually the door latch began to close before it meshed with the strike. My girlfriend just kept slamming the door trying to close the door. This only broke the body where the strike is attached.
I had to go buy the 90 mig welder from Harbor Freight. This unit did a very good job! I used the minimum setting. After grinding off the excess and smoothing it with a small air grinder it looks great and is sound. I did not stop with just repairing the body. I removed the door completely to add some weld to the areas where the hinge pins had worn away. Using a round file to open the hole back to it's original size. I have the door closed'for now and am waiting for a new lock actuator. I stopped in at a Pick A Part to try to remove a lock actuator off a junker and it is still not clear to me as to how to get this off. I am going back tomorrow to test removing this unit. I will make a new post on how to do this with photos.

 

There are three torx bolts on the outer part of the door that hold it on. Remove those then you will need to reach into the door to disconnect the lines for the handles and disconnect the plugs to it. Then it will come out in a complete unit with the lock mechanism and actuator. Hope it works out for you bud.

Did your interior lights remain on too?