Not quite as simple as Jake said.

I'm nearly blind when looking into dark places. Yes the removal of the three screws was a simple part of the job. The rods to the inside door opener is pretty self eplaninatory . Just remember to get these rods back in place prior to reinstalling the three screws for the latch and actuator. I had to also remove the outer door handle to release the flip locks on the rods to the handle. Even then the latch & actuator would not pass by the window glass track. I had to remove this as well. Sorry no pictures were taken on this one because of wire issues. The brown and green wires in the rubber boot between the body and door had broken. This was partly the cause of the actuator not functioning. The actuator was broken. While in repairing the wires for the actuator I also repaired a failing speaker wire.

In addition to this repair I removed the door completely to install new hinge pins. The door was not sagging to badly because I put new ones in about a year ago. I used my new Harbor Freight 90amp welder to add some new material to the holes. Then used a round file to open the holes enough for a tight fit for the new brass pin guides. Aside from the plastic missing from the door latch which quiets the closing the door closes easily and quietly. I have plenty of doors to repair so I'll get some pictures of both jobs posted soon.

 

EL-Beautor is right as well, its not just as simply as I explain it. One of those "much easier said than done things. A couple of days ago I took another gander at my lock mechanism and noticed that the actuator is loose on my lock mechanism. I am able to get the door to lock with the button but I have to be pressing my hand against the actuator otherwise it just moves. I am gonna try to see if I can take it apart today and snap photos for everyone.

 

I had a problem sort of like this. My driver door was sagging and the lock wasn't lining up properly. The interior lights would sometimes not turn off so I set them not to turn on. One day the door wouldn't latch. I took it apart and the plastic actuator on the latch was broken into 3 pieces, jamming the latch. Kinna weird tho, I don't have electronic locks so why do my door latches have actuators? Anyway I pieced the actuator back together with epoxy and then used "tough as steel" putty around it too add strength, careful not to get any in the latch or gear (one again, why? I don't have electric locks) let it dry, sanded it a little to fit properly and put it back in while also replacing the door pins and shims. Works perfect and now I can turn the interior lights back on and they are fine. I'm happy with this because have you priced a new latch for these cars? Outrageous!

 

This is also what I found while repairing my door. The dealer wanted $120.00 for a new latch.

 

Thnos-- that is different that you have an actuator if you only have manual locks but. To be honest I think the actuator you said broke into a few pieces is what I think is giving my blazer issues with the interior lights staying on. I am pretty sure part of the actuator broke off where it is supposed to be connected to the lock mechanism.

Best bet getting the lock mechanism is to get a one that appears to be in good shape of s10 or blazer at a junk yard.