Question about upper intake??

Closed Thread Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Apr 9, 2012 | 06:19 PM

#11

red06sc

Starting Member

Joined: Jul 2011

Posts: 144

From: akron,oh

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captain Hook

Piece of cake... Remove the distributor cap. Bump the starter until the rotor points directly at the "6" on the distributor housing. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the distributor. When you reinstall the distributor, make sure the rotor points to the "6" when the housing is fully seated against the intake manifold. Reconnect the battery cable. Disconnecting the battery cable ensures the crankshaft doesn't move while you've got the distributor out. (As long as you don't move the crankshaft while the distributor is out, you'll be fine.)

i think im having this issue...so what happens if it dont point to 6?

Apr 9, 2012 | 07:35 PM

#12

Captain Hook

Moderator

Joined: Mar 2009

Posts: 8,453

From: Belleville, Michigan

The only reason for setting the rotor to the "6" before you pull the distributor, is so you know exactly where it goes when you reinstall it. The key here is, DON'T move the crankshaft while the distributor is removed. There's also an "8" on the distributor housing, and you can align the rotor there if you want, it doesn't matter which mark you use, the important things are put it back in the same place, and don't move the crankshaft.

On a V6 engine that is timed correctly: when the rotor is pointing to the "6" on the housing, it means #1 cylinder is at TDC of its compression stroke and ready to fire the spark plug. The "8" means the same thing for a V8 engine.

Apr 10, 2012 | 12:15 AM

#13

4x4blazerguy

Thread Starter

Senior Member

Joined: Mar 2008

Posts: 975

I took it to a shop today & the owner worked for a Chevy dealer for 10 years. So it was real easy for me I sat & drank coffee. He replaced it with a FelPro gasket, What he told me is the FelPro is a bit thicker & doesn't crush as bad as the OEM gasket. He said once you change them with the FelPro gasket the likely hood of ever doing it again is very remote.
I had the cooling system flushed & new DexCool put in. Someone put on a new water pump & radiator & put the old DexCool back & topped it with green. So he cleaned out the tank also. So I'm set to go & didn't even get my hands dirty.
Thanks for all the info.

Apr 10, 2012 | 02:57 PM

#14

Captain Hook

Moderator

Joined: Mar 2009

Posts: 8,453

From: Belleville, Michigan

Felpro gasket is totally different design than OE. Yes, it's thicker, but it's made out of real rubber and steel, not plastic and silicone rubber. If it's installed correctly, it won't leak. Dexcool and ethylene glycol when mixed together, turn into a brown mud and can be rather difficult to clean out. The main problem with using the green stuff in a Dexcool system is that the green is far more abrasive and prematurely destroys the water pump seal.

Apr 10, 2012 | 11:47 PM

#15

4x4blazerguy

Thread Starter

Senior Member

Joined: Mar 2008

Posts: 975

That explains the crushing of the OEM gaskets. Yea I have seen what happens when you mix green & Dexcool. It got cleaned out & I now have nice clean orange anti freeze. I'm taking a trip in a few days I'm headed to Mopars @The Strip in Las Vegas. for a hopefully a nice weekend of drag racing. My buddy owns a race team of Mopars & he & his boy will be racing. So I will get a nice pit seat & enjoy the event. I own two Mopars myself. I own a Dodge 2500 4x4 QC V-10 5speed, & a Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited. But to be honest I find the Blazer 4x4 to be my choice of road trucks. The Jeep is fast but it isn't as comfortable & it likes gas. My Dodge V-10 has one job & that is to tow our 10,000 travel trailer. It does that real nice & easy. If it got the mileage or close to the mileage of our Blazer I would make it my road truck. But 12 MPG isn't enough.