Random multiple misfire; found my problem!
#11
Did your new distributor come with a new CMP (camshaft position) sensor? If so, you likely need a crankshaft variation relearn procedure performed (also called CASE learn). A CASE learn needs to be done whenever you change either the CMP or CKP (crankshaft position) sensor.
#12
Hi Kyle, did you see my post in #10 of this tread? thanks
#13
BDK, that would suggest that you have a problem with either the wiring or the actual CMP sensor itself.
#14
Did your new distributor come with a new CMP (camshaft position) sensor? If so, you likely need a crankshaft variation relearn procedure performed (also called CASE learn). A CASE learn needs to be done whenever you change either the CMP or CKP (crankshaft position) sensor.
#15
So if I understand everyone correctly, and looking at the pictures posted, replacing the entire distributor seems to be the correct course of action? Is it an easy swap out? Is there room to just pull it straight out of the top of the engine? Do you have to replace the crank position sensor? I'm assuming the rotor is the long skinny part that goes inside the shaft (based on the pictures), or is that the reluctor? You'll have to forgive my n00bness, I've never tackled ignition systems or distributors before. Thanks.
#16
Yes, there is room to pull it straight out of the top of the engine. Remove the cap and then remove the retaining bolt under the distributor. Lift it up and out. Before you remove the rotor though, mark the position of the rotor tip on the base of the distributor. Once you pull it up about an inch, mark its new position. Transfer the marks to the new distributor and you should have no problems getting it installed correctly on the first try. Just do not rotate the engine over.
You should not need to replace the CKP sensor.
Concerning the parts shown in the pictures I posted above, the cap and rotor are not shown. Only the distributor body (w/ installed CMP sensor), distributor shaft, shims, washers, and drive gear.
You should not need to replace the CKP sensor.
Concerning the parts shown in the pictures I posted above, the cap and rotor are not shown. Only the distributor body (w/ installed CMP sensor), distributor shaft, shims, washers, and drive gear.
#17
Hi all
Sorry to post in a 2-3 week old thread but
My 2000 blazer seemd to have the same type issue. Mainly highway speed hard misfire. Almost like no fuel. runs fine when you nail the gas pedal. another strange associated event is the temp gage goes to 0 everytime this happens. Does this sound like the same distributor issue to you?
Another update
Went over and ran codes, NO codes at all?????
Sorry to post in a 2-3 week old thread but
My 2000 blazer seemd to have the same type issue. Mainly highway speed hard misfire. Almost like no fuel. runs fine when you nail the gas pedal. another strange associated event is the temp gage goes to 0 everytime this happens. Does this sound like the same distributor issue to you?
Another update
Went over and ran codes, NO codes at all?????
#18
There is no mech. advance on this distributor. I had a P1345 for several years. I finally got so frustrated that I bought a dist. from an online company. Its VERY ironic but that distributor showed up broken. The machine that presses the part (dist. plate) that you screw the rotor into didn't press it. Now, this had me thinking that maybe my dist. really was the problem.
I went to Autozone and bought a new dist. from them and took it home to compare it to the distributor in my car. Sure enough there was about 4.5deg of difference (my dist. was retarded 4.5deg in comparison to the new one). The crazy part is that it was still a tight fit press onto the shaft. the I aligned the motor TDC cyl. 1 and dropped the new dist in and just wanted to beat my head against the wall I was so happy because the light disappeared immediately.
I tried everything. New CKP ($80), new CMP($40), new camshaft($300 + $300 in other parts), several new dist. gears ($57.00 each/dealer part only), did the obvious (caps/rotors/wires), new coil. The list goes on.
In the end having the misfire destroyed my cat. convertor, which blew all the crud into my exhaust and destroyed that. (new cat is $321.99 new exhaust is $100)
I still love that car and wouldn't trade it but for F**ks sake!!!! That is a painful problem to solve! Even master mechanics couldn't begin to steer me in the right direction.
Good luck to anyone who has this problem as I could not begin to wish this problem on my worst enemy...
Oh btw, in reference to Swartlkk's message about the CASE learn procedure... That procedure will not work if the dist. is out of timing due to the Hall Effect sensing being off on the CMP.
I went to Autozone and bought a new dist. from them and took it home to compare it to the distributor in my car. Sure enough there was about 4.5deg of difference (my dist. was retarded 4.5deg in comparison to the new one). The crazy part is that it was still a tight fit press onto the shaft. the I aligned the motor TDC cyl. 1 and dropped the new dist in and just wanted to beat my head against the wall I was so happy because the light disappeared immediately.
I tried everything. New CKP ($80), new CMP($40), new camshaft($300 + $300 in other parts), several new dist. gears ($57.00 each/dealer part only), did the obvious (caps/rotors/wires), new coil. The list goes on.
In the end having the misfire destroyed my cat. convertor, which blew all the crud into my exhaust and destroyed that. (new cat is $321.99 new exhaust is $100)
I still love that car and wouldn't trade it but for F**ks sake!!!! That is a painful problem to solve! Even master mechanics couldn't begin to steer me in the right direction.
Good luck to anyone who has this problem as I could not begin to wish this problem on my worst enemy...
Oh btw, in reference to Swartlkk's message about the CASE learn procedure... That procedure will not work if the dist. is out of timing due to the Hall Effect sensing being off on the CMP.
Last edited by 02BlazerLS; 01-04-2010 at 09:09 PM.
#19
This doesn't sound like it's all to blame on the distributor yes you will get part throttle surge if the distributor rotor is not within 2 degrees of the #6 mark when installed with the engine on top dead center but there is a procedure called a ckp sensor relearn that is to be performed every time the distributor/cam postition sensor,crank position sensor or pcm are unhooked. It sounds more like a ground problem or possibly a fault in the pcm. Mine did the surge at part throttle and it ended up being someone pulled the pcm memory fuse under the cover in engine compartment and erased all the stored settings. Fix with a awsome tuned pcm from wait 4 me performance $160 delivered
#20
There is no mech. advance on this distributor. I had a P1345 for several years. I finally got so frustrated that I bought a dist. from an online company. Its VERY ironic but that distributor showed up broken. The machine that presses the part (dist. plate) that you screw the rotor into didn't press it. Now, this had me thinking that maybe my dist. really was the problem.
I went to Autozone and bought a new dist. from them and took it home to compare it to the distributor in my car. Sure enough there was about 4.5deg of difference (my dist. was retarded 4.5deg in comparison to the new one). The crazy part is that it was still a tight fit press onto the shaft. the I aligned the motor TDC cyl. 1 and dropped the new dist in and just wanted to beat my head against the wall I was so happy because the light disappeared immediately.
I tried everything. New CKP ($80), new CMP($40), new camshaft($300 + $300 in other parts), several new dist. gears ($57.00 each/dealer part only), did the obvious (caps/rotors/wires), new coil. The list goes on.
In the end having the misfire destroyed my cat. convertor, which blew all the crud into my exhaust and destroyed that. (new cat is $321.99 new exhaust is $100)
I still love that car and wouldn't trade it but for F**ks sake!!!! That is a painful problem to solve! Even master mechanics couldn't begin to steer me in the right direction.
Good luck to anyone who has this problem as I could not begin to wish this problem on my worst enemy...
Oh btw, in reference to Swartlkk's message about the CASE learn procedure... That procedure will not work if the dist. is out of timing due to the Hall Effect sensing being off on the CMP.
I went to Autozone and bought a new dist. from them and took it home to compare it to the distributor in my car. Sure enough there was about 4.5deg of difference (my dist. was retarded 4.5deg in comparison to the new one). The crazy part is that it was still a tight fit press onto the shaft. the I aligned the motor TDC cyl. 1 and dropped the new dist in and just wanted to beat my head against the wall I was so happy because the light disappeared immediately.
I tried everything. New CKP ($80), new CMP($40), new camshaft($300 + $300 in other parts), several new dist. gears ($57.00 each/dealer part only), did the obvious (caps/rotors/wires), new coil. The list goes on.
In the end having the misfire destroyed my cat. convertor, which blew all the crud into my exhaust and destroyed that. (new cat is $321.99 new exhaust is $100)
I still love that car and wouldn't trade it but for F**ks sake!!!! That is a painful problem to solve! Even master mechanics couldn't begin to steer me in the right direction.
Good luck to anyone who has this problem as I could not begin to wish this problem on my worst enemy...
Oh btw, in reference to Swartlkk's message about the CASE learn procedure... That procedure will not work if the dist. is out of timing due to the Hall Effect sensing being off on the CMP.