The Red BRAKE (!)(P) light came on yesterday
#1
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While driving. And I can get it to turn off with regularity.. if I press on the pedal hard enough, I can get it to momentarily turn off and on, then I hear a "click" of sorts and then the light will stay on.. seemingly until I press brake pedal hard to the floor again.
Yesterday the pedal was a little soft, so, today, I set about changing some brake fluid.
I took the cover of the master cylinder off, as one potential buyer showed me. I pressed the brake pedal and fluid came spilling out like a fountain for a second. Good thing I had a bottle of DOT 3 Brake Fluid!
I put that back on, and "bled the brakes." Felt pedal firm up.
After a 5 minute drive, still doing the same thing, both ABS and BRAKE(!)(P) light on, probably unrelated... so I did that again, no fountain this time, pressed pedal.
This time, I SEEM to be able to get it to the floor without the BRAKE(!)(P) light illuminating.
It is presently sitting now, and I recently had a birthday. But.
IF the light returns. What could possibly be going on?
I can also get the pedal to go down to the floor if I press it hard enough. And get the light to come back on when I do that and then turn back off when I go up and down on the pedals in a certain way
Yesterday the pedal was a little soft, so, today, I set about changing some brake fluid.
I took the cover of the master cylinder off, as one potential buyer showed me. I pressed the brake pedal and fluid came spilling out like a fountain for a second. Good thing I had a bottle of DOT 3 Brake Fluid!
I put that back on, and "bled the brakes." Felt pedal firm up.
After a 5 minute drive, still doing the same thing, both ABS and BRAKE(!)(P) light on, probably unrelated... so I did that again, no fountain this time, pressed pedal.
This time, I SEEM to be able to get it to the floor without the BRAKE(!)(P) light illuminating.
It is presently sitting now, and I recently had a birthday. But.
IF the light returns. What could possibly be going on?
I can also get the pedal to go down to the floor if I press it hard enough. And get the light to come back on when I do that and then turn back off when I go up and down on the pedals in a certain way
#6
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Thorough check required. Brakes are no fun to loose!
Having both brake lights on indicates serious problems.
ABS (amber) usually indicates an electronic/electric problem with the ABS. Either self test not performing correctly or after that some inputs our outputs (electrical pump motor - solenoids) getting a fault.
RED BRAKE light indicative of a more serious problem. Usually (but you definitively have to read the manual for the exact make and model) it indicates a serious degradation of the braking system other then ABS.
Most of the cars have the red light on for:
low brake fluid level
brake pads worn to the wear sensor
In any case you have to investigate and repair the problem as this is an "unsafe" condition to drive the vehicle!
DonL's advice is sound. I would go further and check:
Fluid level. These master brake cylinders eject fluid when pressing the pedal without the cap on the reservoir as you found out.
Top off and try to avoid spilling any. If you have spillage needs a wash, especially if on the color. It will eat through your paint.
Have someone pump the brakes up and keep the pressure on the brake pedal, then check:
All brake lines from the master brake cylinder to the 4 wheels for leaks.
All brake hoses for bulges under pressure. (Don't forget the one from the frame to the rear axle)
Then (with your buddy's help) and the possibilities (lift, jack, stands - always using the safety precautions required)
Remove all the wheels and check:
Discs for thickness (wear limit)
pads for thickness (wear limit)
ABS wires in the wheel well to the wheels for chafing, rubbing, broken wires etc.
ABS sensor for proper positioning, dirt etc.
ABS reluctor wheel for dirt, broken teeth excessive rust.
ABS
Check all fuses related to the ABS (anyway - check "all" fuses)
Check the connectors to the ABS
Having both brake lights on indicates serious problems.
ABS (amber) usually indicates an electronic/electric problem with the ABS. Either self test not performing correctly or after that some inputs our outputs (electrical pump motor - solenoids) getting a fault.
RED BRAKE light indicative of a more serious problem. Usually (but you definitively have to read the manual for the exact make and model) it indicates a serious degradation of the braking system other then ABS.
Most of the cars have the red light on for:
low brake fluid level
brake pads worn to the wear sensor
In any case you have to investigate and repair the problem as this is an "unsafe" condition to drive the vehicle!
DonL's advice is sound. I would go further and check:
Fluid level. These master brake cylinders eject fluid when pressing the pedal without the cap on the reservoir as you found out.
Top off and try to avoid spilling any. If you have spillage needs a wash, especially if on the color. It will eat through your paint.
Have someone pump the brakes up and keep the pressure on the brake pedal, then check:
All brake lines from the master brake cylinder to the 4 wheels for leaks.
All brake hoses for bulges under pressure. (Don't forget the one from the frame to the rear axle)
Then (with your buddy's help) and the possibilities (lift, jack, stands - always using the safety precautions required)
Remove all the wheels and check:
Discs for thickness (wear limit)
pads for thickness (wear limit)
ABS wires in the wheel well to the wheels for chafing, rubbing, broken wires etc.
ABS sensor for proper positioning, dirt etc.
ABS reluctor wheel for dirt, broken teeth excessive rust.
ABS
Check all fuses related to the ABS (anyway - check "all" fuses)
Check the connectors to the ABS
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