Quick follow up for anyone who is interested.

Changed out the distributor cap, rotor and spark plugs (AC Delco on the plugs, couldn't find a local AC Delco source for the distributor cap and rotor) and will upgrade them at a later time. The P0300 code cleared and the car is running smooth.

This board was a great help in finding the easiest way to change out the #3 plug. I found it easiest to use a 3/4" box wrench on the end of the 5/8 spark plug socket, accessing it from the top. Read through some of this listings on changing spark plugs and you will see all sorts of options.

And I know this doesn't make much sense, but changing out these parts also has seemed to resolve the failure to turn over issue when starting. While I fully expect to have to replace the solenoid / starter as some point soon - for the past 24 hours it has started up on demand. This was not the case before the parts were replaced. Go figure.

 

Update: Our 2001 blazer ran really good for 5 days. Engine died when I pulled into the driveway Thursday night, and haven't been able to get it started since, cranks but does not start.

I'm thinking fuel pump. When turning the key on, pump runs for 2 seconds, but doesn't build any pressure. Did a fuel line pressure test at the engine and it does not show any pressure when you turn the key on. Shows about 10psi when cranking the engine. I jerry rigged a fitting at the for the pressure gauge at the fuel filter, and shows about 10ps when key is turned to the on position.

Could it be anything else? I bought a Delphi pump earlier today, but before I attempt to replace it, I thought I would see if there were any other ideas I should check first.

 

When you tested pressure at the fuel filter: If the fuel line dead ended at the pressure tester, and all you got was 10psi, it could very well be the pump, or, it could be a poor connection. The original connector at the fuel pump module has had issues with high resistance. The connector will melt from the heat and distort the connector which causes a poor connection. When you unplug the connector, look closely for discoloration and or distortion. Most new pumps come with a new style, (flat four) connector that needs to be solder to the wiring harness with rosin core solder. Do not use the crimp connectors that come in the box.


The grey wire should show battery voltage for ~2 seconds when the ignition is initially turned to the RUN position, and then drop to zero volts. Both black wires, (on the vehicle harness) should show less than 5 ohms resistance to ground at all times.

 

Thanks Captain Hook. I didn't notice any discoloration on the connector or wires tonight when I unplugged them, but will look again tomorrow in daylight. I think I read somewhere on this board that you can use wire nuts as well for the connectors - any thoughts on that?

It is a real struggle to get the gas intake hose (not the fuel lines) off at the tank. It looks like there is enough extra hose to cut it, with out having to replace it. How hard it is to get to other end, should I have to replace the whole hose?

 

No wire nuts, they're worse than crimp connectors. The idea is to get a good solid connection and seal it. Use rosin core solder and heat shrink tube to weatherproof it. It's bad enough getting in there once, do the job right and be done with it. If it needs a pump, don't waste your time and/or money on aftermarket stuff, use AC Delco or Delphi only. As for the fuel fill hose... stick a small screwdriver between the steel filler neck and the rubber hose to break it loose, or try a large channel lock and twist the rubber hose to break it loose. Going back together, coat the steel with a bit of axle grease to make it slide on easily, makes it come apart easy the next time too

 

It`s easier to drop the tank to get the pump out then it is to fight with those hoses,, take off the gas cap, remove the three small screws.. carefully remove the three plastic lines, support the gas tank with a floor jack and a piece of wood to prevent puncture of the tank, you will also need to remove the ground strap that it bolted to the frame , you`ll see it.. there is another ground strap theer also for something else make sure ya put both back on when doing the re-install.. carefully get the tank out from the truck and make sure ya use an air gun to get any dirt or pebbles away from the pump b4 removing it from the tank.. Other wise your going to get dirt and junk in the tank and ya do`nt want that. I had to completely drain the tank when i got it down and removed the filler hose and vent hose from the tank.. when you get the old pump out clean up the area wheer the new gasket sits, put some white lube on the gasket ring, you`ll notice that it helps it to slide into position easier and make sure the pump goes in straight in the tank, not crooked.. If you lived near me i`d help ya out,, I just dropped my tank for the second time in two weeks, due to a new faulty Fuel pump.. grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, I`m becoming a pro at the removal part, lol

 

I managed that by moving the clamp to the middle of the hose and tightening it. Then I just sprayed the end of the hose farthest from the tank with WD40 and worked a flat head screw driver around until it eventually loosened up. It didn't seem likely that the hose could be removed as easy at the tank end.

The problem with cutting the hose is you might not have enough slack to reattach properly. When I replaced my tank, I also had to replace the filler pipes as well. The hoses didn't seat properly until I jacked the tank up to the proper position.

 

Mission accomplished!

Thanks for everyone's help and suggestions and to the multitude of posts on fuel pumps (and other subjects) on this forum that I read.

After spending an over an hour on the filler hose on Sunday, went at with a 15" utility bar, and fresh energy, and it popped right off. The whole job goes back together a lot easier than it comes apart.

I find it somewhat ironic that the easiest part of the entire job is the actual replacement of the fuel pump.