Hard to describe the noise the left front bearing was making. I noticed it most when the left side was against a wall...I could really hear it then. The sound to me was like the left front tire had a large piece of tape around about 1/4 of it...and going down the road I could hear the "tape" being pulled off and then quiet, then off again, etc.

At first I thought one of the dust flaps on top of the upper control arm was catching air and flopping around. But one day it rained, so streets were wet and I was only travelling about 20-25 mph....I could hear the "tape" sound...but as I went around right hand curve I really....really hear the noise get louder....and then it stopped when I went straight again.

As I stated above, I damaged the left front bearing by waaaay over torquing the axle nut. I just went ahead and did both sides so I would likely never have to do this job again.

And as I stated above....job was not that difficult except for getting the ABS cable and brake hose clamps back in place....what a PITA!!

I also had to replace the left front caliper due to trashing the caliper guide pin/bolt threads in the caliper due to one of the rubber sleeves that the guide pin/bolt slides into. I found that this rubber piece got off-centered and caused me to cross-thread one of the guide pin/bolt....trashing the threads as I needed to drive the Blazer and needed brakes on both front wheels.

Everything is done now except bleeding the brakes. I left the left front brake line disconnected too long and drained the reservoir. So now I get to do all four wheels....AARRGGHHH.

 

Lanny,

Bleeding ABS is tricky, try this: Don't pump the pedal. Fill the master, leave the cover off and gravity bleed one wheel at a time until they all come clear, (no bubbles). Might take up to 10 minutes or so for each wheel. Don't let the master run dry while gravity bleeding. After all 4 are done, fill the master. Have an assistant apply and hold pressure on the pedal, don't pump it. Quickly open and close a bleeder, (a half second shot). Release the pedal pressure, and re-apply pressure. Repeat until no air bubbles come out. Move to the next wheel & repeat until all wheels are bled. Most times this procedure works, but if the pedal is still mushy, it means there's air trapped in the ABS solenoid(s) and you'll need to do the automated bleed using a high dollar scan tool. Did I mention don't pump the pedal?

 

Captain:
I did the gravity bleed at each wheel: right rear got a steady drip, left rear had a steady flow, right front had a slow drip, left front had no fluid at all. (Reminder that left front is new.)

Did a bunch of very small pedal travel pushes in attempt to bleed the master. Would re-open left front and wait; no fluid. Did this several times.

Pushed pedal to floor slowly, held, then up slowly - did this several times, along with more very small pedal travel pushes. Re-opened left front and had a few drips of fluid but stopped. Repeated a couple of times, but could not get a steady drip of fluid out of the left front.

Got an assistant; did three second press to floor, three second pedal back-up...had her do this three times.
With pedal to floor, open left front and got a big squirt of fluid and lots of air. Closed bleeder quickly. Pedal up slowly. Repeated this a couple of times until no more air out of left front.

Put tires on and went for a drive. Brakes work but feel a bit weak, could not get ABS to activate by three repeated "panic" stops from 25mph. Going to do the two person bleed at each wheel tonight to see if brakes improve. If not better, then time for for the automated bleed using a high dollar scan tool...have to find someone that has one.

Will update with tonight's results.

 

Capt. Hook; I was given to believe that the ABS sensor on this model year was mounted on the dust shield. Not true?

 

Chip, It depends what year and if it's 4WD or 2WD. All 2nd gen T series, (4WD) the sensor is attached to the hub.

 

I just checked Auto Zone and found this assembly is indicated to fit my 95 4 X 4. Duralast/Brake Sensor - ABS (SU12041) | 1995 Chevrolet Blazer 4WD 6 Cylinders W 4.3L CPI | AutoZone.com

 

Chip, your 95 (2nd gen) 4WD is the exception to the rule when it comes to ABS sensors... they are attached to the dust shield. 1996 and newer 4WD are attached to the hub.

1995 was the first year for 2nd gen S&T body. There are several things that are substantially different on 1996 through 2005 models. Along with differences in the ABS system, 1995 used 2 different fuel injection systems and 3 different computer control systems. There seemed to be some "indecission" and as a result, GM did not produce the Oldsmobile Bravada in 1995.

 

I had a '95 4dr 4wd Blazer...was my first Blazer. Took me to 248k miles before I sold it. Good vehicle except for the different fuel injector systems and computer control systems as Captain pointed out.

 

Thanks guys! I fell victim to the fuel injection spider issue @ 70K miles or so, but got it repaired and the truck is still going strong.

 

FYI My 96 Jimmy has the sensor in the dust shield! I'm not sure they're all like that though.