I have a 1997 chevy blazer, 4x4, auto....

I just bought a fuel injector spider assembly, but im not sure if i have the old style or updated style under my trucks intake. I bought the updated unit and i acquired the mounting bracket just in case. If its already the newer version my question then is, how do you get the white/yellowish plastic peaces out of the intake holes? I seen them removed with the intake off then pushed out from the back side but there has to be another way of taking them out with out removing the intake? i was thinking of trying maybe a slide hammer with a hook? iv never messed around with these before and the only reason why im replacing it is because i suspect this to be the cause of my P300/ random misfire problems and my list has pretty much narrowed it down...

What has been checked and replaced with in the last week after getting the P300 code:

Checked for vacuum leaks.
Checked Compression, all cylinders around 170-180 psi across the board.
New NGK spark plugs with factory gap. (old plugs where about 1 year old and didn't smell or look fowled up at all... they all looked identical from one cylinder to another, but replaced them anyways)
New plug wires (in-line tested and tested one by one with timing light before and after new wires)
New cap and rotor (swapped in others just to be sure)
Checked distributor gear
(Swapped in different distributors just to be sure)
Tested MAF, TPS, IAC, EGR, MAP
(Swapped in different MAF, TPS, IAC, EGR, MAP just to be sure)
Tested coil
(Swapped in a coil assembly just to be sure)
New fuel filter
Fuel PSI was at factory specs with key on and key off etc
Cleaned EGR and IAC passage ways.
Scan tool shows all 4 - oxygen sensors with in range
New exhaust from manifolds back.

so hopefully im on the right path with deciding to get a new spider assembly...

 

YouTube has video of removal. Check it out

 

"Fuel PSI was at factory specs with key on and key off etc"

Did it hold over 55 for 10 min? If so,i doubt its the spider. still could be...but they usually just leak.

 

well as far as replacing the plugs, cap, and wires goes did you use AC Delco? i saw you said you used NGK for the plugs which is a no no for these engines. many people have replaced their plugs, cap and wires with cheap parts and still had a problem, then changed them with AC Delco and the problem was solved. Not saying its the problem but it could be. i know these engines are picky when it comes to that.

 

Yea, After being on here for a while, I didn't even bother with cheap-o parts. I took the hit and went right with Delco.

 

4.3's love the ngk plugs!?!?! ive ran em in all of mine...i run the v-powers. Never any issues and they run good!

 

Have you checked camshaft retard? Must be zero degrees plus or minus 2 degrees, (if you've had the distributor out, you really need to check it). AC Delco cap, rotor and plugs, anything else you're asking for problems, and you'll get 'em, guaranteed. Make sure you put a dab of silicone dielectric grease on each terminal, inside and out, of the cap.

 

I watched a few of them but no one showed how to get the plastic peaces out of the injector bosses on the intake

Yes after half an hour it drop roughly 2 to 3 PSI. I wish the regulator wasn't under the intake, im not to sure what the issue is but on cold starts it will back fire it also back fires when you give it fast throttle i also watched my fuel trims the short term trims where kinda jumpy at idle.

I know what you mean but i switched back and forth with new AC delco and new master pro caps and rotors... iv always ran AC delco or NGK on all my GM's with out any problems the new and current plugs i put in are NGK i also bench tested the ones that where in there and the new NGK's just to rule out plugs

I took my distributor out 3 years ago and replaced the base as it got broke when i replaced the a cap and rotor and i never did the relearn procedure and it ran perfect. The odd thing about the random misfire i got was i drove to work truck ran normal, got in the truck 3hrs later turned the key and the engine ran like **** right out of the box the first thing i thought of when i felt and heard it run was someone pulled one of my plug wires out.

 

Capt Hook what are the procedures to set cam retard?
Chevo eat the original poppets pull right out just be easy on them ,if you have the new style injector which i doubt they should pop out also !! I accidently routed my one injector the wrong way and had to pull it out and reroute it and it came out ,,,,just go easy and good luck!!!

 

There is no "relearn" for camshaft retard, it must be checked and adjusted by the tech. It is accessed on a capable scan tool, the el cheapo $300 or $400 ones that the auto parts stores use will not do it. Camshaft retard is adjusted by turning the distributor. The original hold down bracket on the distributor will get you "in the ball park" and allows for limited adjustment. The distributor base outside diameter is 1.240" and the inside diameter of the bore in the intake manifold is 1.337" which allows for approximately 10 or 12 degrees of movement. If that's not enough to get camshaft retard within specs, the original hold down bracket is removed and discarded and an old style SBC hold down is used which allows the distributor to become fully adjustable.