98 blazer... I'm setting the timing. I have cylinder 1 TDC on compression, timing mark on harmonic balancer lined up with timing mark on timing cover. The rotor goes slightly past the mark on the distributor. Should it be on the tooth that's closest? Should it be lined up dead on? Is this a sign that the timing chain is worn? I tried moving it a tooth forward and back and it's even further off.
Thanks

 

You don't actually set the timing on these theres no point in typing all the info just read through this thread the procedure is the same as your 98... https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...6-model-92660/

 

it should be dead on and you should be using a scan tool to check CAM RETARD. that is what your doing. Timing is done by doing a crankshaft relearn. On a lot of these trucks thing have worn and the only way you`ll get the cam retard dead on is to modify the dist clamp hole or buy a small block chevy hold down.. If you don't get that retard at 0 +/- 2 you may get cross firing under the cap and have a skip

 

I understand you can't "adjust" the timing. I'm just talking about lining the rotor up with the mark on the distributor with everything else lined up. The best I can get is a few degrees past the mark. Is this normal? Does it mean the chain is worn? Does it mean the chain skipped a tooth? Is it good enough? Will it cause any issues. Is it cause for alarm and further investigation, or am I good to go? The engine is out right now, so I'm trying to get things figured out so I'm not struggling when everything is back in. Is a small block hold down a legit fix to get it dead on, or is that just kind of a band aid fix?

 

In my experience the 6 on the distributor doesn't line up exactly. If it's not on the right tooth it will give a p1345. Sbc hold down is legit.

 

It's up to maybe 5 degrees past, maybe 2 or 3, it's hard to judge, especially since I'm not looking at it right now. Should I leave it, get sbc hold down or wait until I get the engine back in, fired up, and see if I have any issues.

 

Easier to out of the truck. Short block hold downs are cheap and if you put a screwdriver between the distributor. And old hold down it will pop right out. Then you won't have to worry about it later

 

Don't mess with the clamp at all unless you have a way to read CMP retard. Lining rotor up with the 6 exactly does not get it where it needs to be. If you plan to adjust you can put the SBC clamp on ahead of time, or you can elongate the bolt hole in the original clamp to give a little adjustment. Shouldn't need much, but know that if you do either of these you are forced to set CMP retard by reading it with a scanner. Its worthwhile doing, but not many people have scanners that are capable. Check your scanner before proceeding.