Yes i did and the crank bolt came out

 

Hmm - well with the plugs out there should not be enough drag to ever loosen the crank bolt - so turning by upper things like the alt would be worthless - as suggested a snake camera may tell you something but the only other thing you can do to try to turn engine counter clock would be drop the starter so you can get to the flywheel ...

 

I have some help coming tomorrow that Can hopefully see a bit better down the distributor hole and just make sure there isn't anything in there blocking movement although I doubt anything could get a strong enough grip on the camshaft t hold back a2 ft long ratchet

 

Ya you have a puzzle.
A lost bolt maybe but one would think that effort turning engine counter clockwise would walk it back out. If you happen to see something as it loosened the crank bolt trying to turn engine counter clockwise you may still need to remove the starter to get to the flywheel.
While you have the lim off again maybe something was left under there holding cam so maybe do a double take for a small nut ect binding a cam lobe that would be hard too see.
One thing for sure even if it did fill the cylinders with fuel you shouldn't have dried out the cylinders out enough to lock them up and that problem could be solved when plugs were removed ....

 

Yet another idea. Drain the oil and check if You have any metal particles within. Try sneaking in with the camera through an oil drain hole to see the crankshaft and connecting rods. May be a difficult task, but worth trying.

 

Managed to turn the crank backwards by the flex plate through the large inspection hole in the transmission bellhousingso at least i know the engine is not siezed however i still have to find the obstruction and remove it

 

Ok so I seem to have made quite a mess out of this jimmy and im hoping someone has an idea i havent thought of. I just wanted to reseal the lim because it was leaking oil from the back of the lower intake. Also decided to put a metal distributor in as a preventive maintenance step. Upon trying to time the motor for proper distributor install i found that i couldnt turn the crank to line up with the marks on the timing cover. I also attempted to use the updated spider and at first I thought it mustve filled the cylinders with fuel. After removing the plugs i found that not to be the case. On you fellas suggestion i got a usb inspection camera and examined the cylinders as well as the distributor hole and i cant find anything stopping the rotation of the motor. I can turn the crank clockwise until it hits something solid enough to make an audible clunk. At which point I can reach 100 ft lbs of torque yet it does not rotate any further. I can turn it counter clockwise to a point where it makes another audible clunk and the crank bolt unthreads itself. Im really at a loss with this truck and ive spent too much time and money on it to give up now anyone have a suggestion?

 

I don't wanna sound like a bad prophet here, but sounds like an engine swap time. You may disassemble the engine out of curiosity:
- drop the oil pan (to check for bearing particles in the oil, to see the bearings and connecting rods)
- drop the timing chain cover & get rid of the chain (to try turning the crank/cam separately)
- ....
but this will be more like a case study, as finding a donor for swap is cheaper than a rebuild.

 

I wonde how possible it is to remove the timing cover with the engine in the frame? Tomorrow i will drain the oil and ensure there are no chunks of anything in it though i doubt anything large enough to cause my symptoms is going to pass through the drain hole

 

And Mike your not a bad proffet whatever it turns out to be i undoubtedly caused just trying not to pull the motor back out again