NP man. Your having the exact same issues w/ trouble stalling, or are you getting the P1442 code?

The EGR valve cleaning seems to have fixed my stalling while warm issues. When I pulled it off the little metal push-in valve, the pinnle, would stick in the open position. I'd have to give it a good bang to get it to pop back out. The cleaning made it slide back out naturally again. My interpretation is that it was getting stuck open, allowing too much exhaust gas back into the engine than it could handle when idling.

As for the P1442... Right now I'm looking to the junk yard for this:

Its called anything from "Evaporator Tube Switch" to "EVAP Emission Canister Purge Vacuum Switch".

Long story short, its an dead-easy part to get too and replace. Its on the driver's side, on top of the engine. Get it off using a 10mm socket at the base of the bracket. Or slip it off the bracket by sticking a thin flat-head screwdriver into the top b/w the part and bracket.

I found a good little blurb on it here: http://www.justanswer.com/questions/...problem-occurs

I'll let you know if it clears my code, may take a few days as its not a huge priority atm.

 

No codes yet, but just yesterday it wouldn't start up at all. I had it towed to a local mechanic who thought it was the injection unit ("spider injector"). The fuel line wouldn't hold pressure after turning to the "on" position, and then his hypothesis was that the regulator in the injection unit was at fault, allowing too much fuel to the engine. We could hear the fuel pump working after turning the key to the on position, and he was able to get it started when cranking it immediately instead of waiting a bit for the fuel pump to (flood the engine?) in the on position. (Sorry- I hope that makes sense.) I asked him about the vacuum system and he said that probably wasn't it, because vacuum leaks should trigger a "check engine" light.

Anyway, my symptoms up to this point were identical to yours-- 2-3 cranks to get it started, and engine occasionally dying when warm (after driving for a while), such as at a stop sign. After the mechanic told me the repair would be $950, I said no thanks and drove the car home, as we were consistently able to get it started by cranking immediately. Then at the last stop sign on the way home, the dash lights dimmed a bit, and even though it didn't die, lo and behold, the "check engine" light came on.

I know virtually nothing about cars, and I don't know if we're experiencing the same and/ or multiple issues at the same time. By the way, it's probably unrelated, but my e-brake also has trouble releasing, and I just discovered the A/C doesn't work either; I don't know if these have anything to do with the vacuum system. Also, for what it's worth, the tow truck driver told me that he tows at least one S-series Chevy per day because of a bad fuel pump, and the mechanic said that both the fuel pump and the spider injector are very common problems with these cars. I have no money now, so I probably won't be able to get the "check engine" code anytime soon (or get any real repairs done for that matter). Thanks for all the helpful info and I'll keep checking the thread.

Edit: I found this page which may be of interest to both of us:

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...3112851AABYD89

Have you had a fuel pressure check?

Also, some chaotic but interesting info to muddle through on this page, particularly replies #9 and #49:

http://autoforum.classifieds1000.com...ouble_starting