2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech Discuss 2nd generation S-series (1995-2005) general tech topics here.

Starter problem, back firing, need advice

Old Jun 18, 2011 | 09:02 AM
  #11  
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Volkswagon had it in the early 70's. Once your key visited the start position, and you released it to the run position, you could not turn it back to the start position. Had to key off first. You know what Vince from Sham-WOW says...."you know those germans! They make good stuff!"

But I believe CDW's starter is engaging. Just not staying engaged. Therefore, I would say it is not being locked out.
 
Old Jun 20, 2011 | 06:25 PM
  #12  
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Well, thanks again for the replies.... It looks like the starter tested bad ( @ Advance Auto ) Guess I'll start checking around for a used one some where!
 
Old Jun 29, 2011 | 10:28 AM
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OK, got the starter rebuilt, hoping this would cure the not wanting to start with out starting fluid issue resolved, no go. I replace the air filter also because the other was toast.....
so what shall be my next steps of figuring this one out ?

( the fuel pump was replaced not too long ago as well )

Thanks!
 

Last edited by cdw78; Jun 29, 2011 at 10:31 AM.
Old Jul 5, 2011 | 05:54 PM
  #14  
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I dont have any access to a fuel pressure gauge, but fuel does squirt out of the fitting behind the intake.... I can hear the pump running when the engine is running, but cant hear it kick on when the key is first turned on. SHOULD I BE ABLE TO HEAR IT KICK ON ?

I checked the maf sensor, its pretty clean ( IF i UNPLUG IT WHILE ITS RUNNING, IT DOESNT CHANGE ANYTHING, SHOULD IT MAKE A DIFFERENCE? )
I cleaned the dist cap and button, just for the hell of it, but they were pretty clean and in descent shape.

So, what else, besides a fuel press. gauge should I be looking at ???


PS - Im sure this is nothing, but the fuel gauge seems to move a little here and there when its sitting still..... and jumos like crazy when the key is first turned on.
THANKS!
 

Last edited by cdw78; Jul 5, 2011 at 06:01 PM.
Old Jul 5, 2011 | 09:19 PM
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You really need to get the fuel pressure checked.
 
Old Jul 17, 2011 | 10:26 AM
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UPDATE -
I finally got a hold of a gauge and scanner ( like the one they use @ Advance Auto ) No codes were found. I unplugged the MAF just to test since the battery had been unhooked and its been setting, it picked it up, so I assume I am good on at least no codes or whatever.....

I used a SnapOn fuel gauge ( put the pipe tape like it said around the threads ) I was getting on 40psi when I turned the key on and turning it over.
The highest it went was 52 ( after using starting fluid to start it & while its running )
It did seem to drop pressure as well pretty quickly, a cpl. psi with in just a few mins.
Also, it still bogs out more with giving it more fuel, take it slow and you can redline it....

After reading here, I tried turning the key off and on atleast 10 times or more a few times, this didnt help. Also while having the gauge on it, still wouldn't go over 40psi.

I am guessing the fuel pump either wasnt really replaced less than a yr ago, is junk, or wasnt installed correctly. I am going to speak with the guy and find out for sure the details on it so maybe I can swap it out for another....
 

Last edited by cdw78; Jul 17, 2011 at 02:23 PM.
Old Jul 17, 2011 | 06:51 PM
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Sounds like the fuel pump is garbage.
 
Old Jul 18, 2011 | 10:18 AM
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Sounds like a fuel issue to me. From the beginning when you were talking about it acting different after it sits overnight. The residual fuel, or starter fluid may evaporate a bit after sitting for awhile and change the start characteristics.

So if you turn the key on (don't turn the engine) you don't hear the fuel pump? What does the fuel gauge do at this point? You mentioned it bounces for a bit? That's probably not a good sign of reliable fuel availability/delivery.

Ask the person who/where the pump was done and if they have the records. It may be under warranty.
 
Old Jul 18, 2011 | 10:33 AM
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I agree with Leeann & pheaton. Definitely sounds like a weak fuel pump to me. #1 - the pressure should exceed 55psi with the key-on, engine-off. #2 - The pressure should remain above 50psi for 10 minutes after the pump has shut off. If either of these two criteria are not met, there is a problem in the fuel system.

The next step in my diagnosis would be to test the pressure at the fuel pump to see if you get different results. A leaky or otherwise faulty fuel pressure regulator could cause both of these problems. Testing at the fuel filter on the main supply line will isolate the pump from the rest of the system (barring a leaking line).

It has been noted over and over here and elsewhere. Aftermarket pumps are notorious for having a short life expectancy. It more often than not pays to buy an AC Delco or Delphi fuel pump.
 
Old Jul 18, 2011 | 12:41 PM
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Thanks for the info. Come to find out, It's been 2 yrs or so since replaced and from what I've been told by the guy I got it from, this is when it started needing starting fluid to get going. My guess is the dumb *** ( from what I've been told by some one who knows him! LOL ) he prob got the wrong pump, got the cheapest pos he could, or didnt even put it in correctly... who knows.

It never hits over 40 psi when priming or turning over, never over 52psi with the engine running. So unless I should test at other locations, I am pretty confident its the fuel pump or something to do with it.....

Ive been reading a little about removing the tank, but also about whacking a hole under the seat, any body got some advice on either job? Not to lazy to drop the tank, just thinking in advance!

Read over in the first gen thread about this sellers / Ebay fuel pumps, any one have any info on the pump / seller ?

THANKS!

NEW FUEL PUMP MODULE ASSEMBLY E3953M | eBay
 

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