Hello my friends,

98 GMC Jimmy premier v6 4.3 black with one flat tire;

I tried a GMC forum, however those monkeys couldn't decide whether a human/animal hybrids was an ethical or moral problem. I left them to their delusions.

Anyway, car was flipped, I replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs, spark wires, cleaned fuel injectors and tested them and they work. After this car started for 1 - 2 minutes then died, then started and died immediately then wouldn't even start. So I bypassed the OH SO FUN passlock whatnot, and car starts strong then ultimately dies again, much better, might I say, than when the passlock crap was flashing at me when cranking.

I relearned system, so passlock is a non issue. Unless it may still somehow be shutting off the fuel injectors, if it is I will travel back in time and ninja these people.

However, when I replaced the fuel pump I didn't remember where the lines went so I just guessed. < which is really my question, I dont' know where the fuel lines go because jose didn't bother to remember. I think I may have switched the incoming fuel with the return, which is to say I need a pic or a diagram. And also what would happen if I did in fact switch them incorrectly.

Now, at this point I should say that many of the "I" was really my mexican roommate who bought this sweeeet ride for 500 bucks, I handed him a digital camera to take pictures before he did anything to it, but I found him sucking on the camera and trying to stick his "member" into the fuel entry hole. So this is what I'm dealing with.

I have a disjointed FSM I acquired that doesn't have the fuel pump connections in any diagram I looked through. No search function, and it's in 40 different parts.

Btw, its freaking RIDICULOUS that no FSM's are made available for this car, I have FSM's for all my other cars in perfect quality that were freely given to me. So, if any one desires whatever part of the FSM, it's broken up in many sections such as engine, brakes, etc. I will GLADLY email it to you, I searched this site for one and it's silly no one will give it out publicly. Well that ends here friends.

Edit: its an overall FSM for GMC and Chevy from 95 to 04 that deals with the 4.3 models of s/10, jimmy and blazer, but has lots of crossovers, if enough people want it I'll up it to Rapishare and you can pass the link around to the end of the interwebz for all i care.

Thanks for the help

I should add that I also got a Service Engine Light sometimes, and while it was on in this instance, I got a code reader, it connected and there were no codes to be found, I reset the codes anyway and tried again, no codes again and after the passlock was bypssed there has been no Service Light.

Fuel pump housing where lines connect:
O ---> Big hose connector that I assume went to the air
O ---> Smaller hose connector where I attached the line that connects to the other side of the tank through a TEE and I believe goes through to the filter
O ---> Smaller hose connector that went up up and away through the infinite blackness of the chassis.

 

First off, welcome to the forum.

The connections to the pump assembly are pretty fool proof. The main fuel line is larger than the other lines (return and EVAP) so you cannot mix up that line and I do not know if either of the other lines really matter that much...

As far as your problem goes, have you put a fuel pressure tester onto it to see what is happening to the pressure? That would be a quick way to gain traction in a particular direction as far as the diagnosis goes.

If you find that the fuel pressure is dropping, then you can now determine why. Is the pump loosing power? If so, you may want to inspect the ignition switch by probing the appropriate connections under the steering column to determine whether the contacts are doing what they are supposed to be doing in each of the various key positions (see the 'anatomy of the ignition switch link' found in my signature below).

You could just start at the ignition switch as well.

 

Thanks for the reply,

I was wondering if the ignition could be causing the problem....

Lets say the contactors are bad, this is something that would need to be replaced? Or could it be repaired or even cleaned?

Edit: It starts strong, then when it starts to die, I tap the gas peddle and it will surge it and manage to keep it going, but it ultimately will always drop rpms rapidly and die.

 

The problem with disassembling the ignition switch is that there is a rather stiff torsion spring inside that is almost impossible to get put back in properly. You may not need to pull it open to that extent, but if you remove too many screws without holding the darn thing together, it'll unwind. Also, there are some other little springs in there that can go missing easily.

Best case scenario, you get it apart, clean the contacts, and get it back together to find that it's working properly. Worst case scenario, you loose the springs and have to buy a new switch.

But test that the appropriate wires are getting power when they should first. Because if all of them are getting power properly, then the switch is functioning normally and doesn't need to be replaced.

 

Well I was about to just buy a new ignition switch, following your expert guide you have in your sig, when lo and behold it now runs, as if magic. It sputtered and idled rough between 2500 to 3000 rpms, now after driving it around a bit it bumps from 1k to 1.5k rpms, we took off the air filter housing where the air filter goes under and the arm that attaches to the funny looking black tear drop cover over the throttle body, we left the tear drop cover and no more surging.

However, soon thereafter transmission fluid was pouring out of one corner of the pan, so we're now changing the fluid and filter. Likewise there was also a leak from the drivers side hose off the top of the radiator. So we're flushing that as well.

Anyways, I wonder if it was the computer that needed to relearn the rpms for idle and drive timing, etc.? Massive amounts of carbon was being spilled on teh ground by the exhaust, will probably seafoam once I get the fluids changed. I don't really know why it decided to run other than a comp relearn...

Also the brakes are super hard to push in, sponge like toughness and it does not want to stop well, if I push really hard it clunks, I'm wondering if there is too much fluid, or even too much air in the line?

Big thanks for all the help mate, really appreciated.