Stuck exhaust valve:
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New Member
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 61
From: Imperial, MO
Pictures of the top of the piston on #3 cylinder. Sorry I did not bring it to the top but the distributor is removed and I did not want to rotate the engine yet. The valve is not shiny because I had to drive the vehicle in this shape to get back home.
Super Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,786
From: Tucson, Arizona
Thoses pictures look familar as when I took the heads off of that SBC.
I think the piston is fine, although I would remove any sharp edges around the impact.
Let us know how the rebuilt heads install goes.
I think the piston is fine, although I would remove any sharp edges around the impact.
Let us know how the rebuilt heads install goes.
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New Member
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 61
From: Imperial, MO
The heads have been reworked and I will be reinstalling tomorrow.
I noticed that the cylinder walls still had the cross hatching honing marks still visible and no wear ridge at the top of the cylinder. This vehicle has 252K miles on it, I would not think that the cross hatch honing marks would still be visible after this many miles.
I noticed that the cylinder walls still had the cross hatching honing marks still visible and no wear ridge at the top of the cylinder. This vehicle has 252K miles on it, I would not think that the cross hatch honing marks would still be visible after this many miles.
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 329
The heads have been reworked and I will be reinstalling tomorrow.
I noticed that the cylinder walls still had the cross hatching honing marks still visible and no wear ridge at the top of the cylinder. This vehicle has 252K miles on it, I would not think that the cross hatch honing marks would still be visible after this many miles.
I noticed that the cylinder walls still had the cross hatching honing marks still visible and no wear ridge at the top of the cylinder. This vehicle has 252K miles on it, I would not think that the cross hatch honing marks would still be visible after this many miles.
keep us updated on how it turns out!!!! And of course pictures are always welcomed......haha
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New Member
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 61
From: Imperial, MO
Well, it's finally back together 
. It has some hesitation if I do a fast RPM increase. I believe that I can correct this by adjusting the Distributor. See the picture for info from scan tool. I have not tried to adjust it yet, hopefully I won't have to modify the hold down bracket like Captain mentioned in:
I'll post back with results. Thanks everyone for the help.
. It has some hesitation if I do a fast RPM increase. I believe that I can correct this by adjusting the Distributor. See the picture for info from scan tool. I have not tried to adjust it yet, hopefully I won't have to modify the hold down bracket like Captain mentioned in:
The distributor hold down needs to be removed from the distributor and modified, to make the distributor fully adjustable. You'll need to cut the OEM hold down "arms" so the distributor will turn with the hold down installed, (before you tighten it down). The "arms" on the hold down fit around the square part of the distributor housing so the distributor can't turn, making it non-adjustable. The distributor needs to be able to turn to adjust camshaft retard. You can test fit it before you install it. The hold down must still be able to tighten down against the base of the distributor to keep it from turning after you adjust camshaft retard. When you're done, the bracket will look similar to this: Mr. Gasket Distributor Hold-Down Clamp 1009: Advance Auto Parts If you cut too much off, this is the part you'll need 
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