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Thought was fixed...now NO start

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Old 09-25-2013, 02:40 PM
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Unhappy Thought was fixed...now NO start

I had a bogging hesitation problem and now I have a no start condition. I replaced wires, plugs, dist cap/rotor, fuel filter, MAF & MAP sensor, lower intake gaskets & uppr plenum gaskets (fuel pres reg seemed to be ok) to try to solve the hesitation problem. Then thought was timing so got it to TDC and aligned timing marks on crank and adjusted oil shaft and went in and pointer was at #6 on the housing where it should be, and now it wont start at all but will turn over. Before I take this to a mechanic and get killed in my wallet or blow this truck up can anyone offer any more advice or suggestions why it wont start now? I cant even tell if i fixed the bog/hesitation problem cause it wont start. I am totally lost now and really stressed and missing work cause of this. Its a 2000 blazer 4.3 4dr 4x4 and last time it ran it bogged bad but it would still start right up now it wont and there was no check engine light on. Please help......
 
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Old 09-25-2013, 04:48 PM
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There are a lot of things that could be an issue with all the work done. Double check the timing, make sure it's at TDC on compression stroke. Wiring all plugged in? Passlock issue?
 
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Old 09-25-2013, 06:24 PM
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I think if it was a pass lock issue it wouldn't crank bit maybe not
 
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Old 09-25-2013, 07:13 PM
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Gotta start back at square one. Does it have a hot blue spark at the coil while cranking? Does it have a hot blue, (not orange) spark at each plug while cranking? Is fuel pressure and leakdown within spec?
 
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Old 09-25-2013, 08:02 PM
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have you checked the fuel pressure ?
 
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:20 PM
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Default Tested fuel pressure

ok I got a fuel pressure tester from Harbor Freight and checked the fuel pressure..the first time it read about 20psi and the second time it read about 33psi. I know for the CSEFI it need to be between 50 and 60psi, but I did see some gas spewing where the gage it connected to the line. I hope this tester is not junk. I replaced my fuel pump in this bout 5/6 years ago with an AC delco one and has worked fine. Would this AC delco pump go bad in that amount of time? gonna try some teflon tape and test again and will post the results. If i do need another pump could i go with a Delphi instead of AC Delco? I know the airteck ones are junk. Also could anyone walk me through the correct way to test my ignition coil with a multimeter? Again thanx so far for the repllies I really appreciate them...
 
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:59 PM
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So you didn't check fuel pressure and ignition output before starting to change parts?! Shame, shame!!
 
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Old 09-30-2013, 03:19 PM
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I know I know...fuel pressure tests show 55psi did again and was 60 psi so think that AC delco fuel pump is still good...Not sure how to test my ignition parts if anyone can walk me thru that..(all I have is a multimeter). I also made sure I am at TDC on compression stroke for sure. I am not an expert with testing with multimeter so please walk me through slow if i need to test ignition coil and components. If i need to test my fuel injection system please let me know what to test. Like i said pressure test showed good for pump. Thanks...
 
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Old 09-30-2013, 07:12 PM
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Regulated fuel pressure must be 60psi to 66psi, (engine off). Anything less than 60psi is a problem and the engine might not start. If it does start, it will most likely run poorly.

On your 2000: In the underhood fuse panel there is a vacant terminal next to the fuel pump relay. This is called the "pump prime" terminal, and the wire, (on the underside of the fuse panel) goes directly to the fuel pump.

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Connect the fuel pressure tester. Connect a jumper wire from battery positive to the pump prime terminal. Make sure there are no fuel leaks at the pressure tester connection. When fuel pressure stabilizes on the tester, make a note of it. Then disconnect the jumper wire, wait 10 minutes and make a note of the pressure, (without the jumper wire). Post your results.
 

Last edited by Captain Hook; 09-30-2013 at 07:15 PM.
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