This will be quick and painless. I know NOTHING about the TC system other than what my readings and videos yesterday explained. I'm doing a nearly full examination of my 4.3l 1996 s10 blazer which is why I ask this basic question. When I press the throttle to the floor, there really is no slack in the cable... however I notice the lever does not go back as far as it 'could' go. If I pinch a little out of the cable with my finger my gas pedal (which seems like its sitting too low) raises about the same amount and when pressed all the way to the floor, the throttle lever/geometry bracket does go back as far as it can be pulled. I'm likely analyzing nothing, but can someone confirm that that bracket should not swing back as far as it can go at WOT? thanks in advance.

 

The throttle lever on the throttle body should go to WOT when you floor it with the pedal. I have a 98 and an 04, the 98 is fine but the 04 is doing exactly what yours is. Haven't got around to fixing it yet, let me know what you find My guess is the lever on the gas pedal is bent cuz there is no adjustment on the throttle cable. There is on the cruise, but not on the throttle.

 

so i'm thinking... take a couple zip ties (that would be more secure than tape) to take about an inch off the cable up above the gas pedal behind whatever that thing is that slides (i suppose where there should be an adjuster if it were done right).... would you believe that this problem really started one night after I slammed the gas pedal to the floor, it got stuck and I had to pry it up with my foot. Maybe I bent it? gosh, so many things to check haha... i guess that's better than the feeling of having nothing to go on. To quote my favorite movie character "After all, tomorrow is another day!" ~Scarlett O'hara

i wish i had pics... i'd say the throttle lever on it's own goes back maybe about 3 qtrs of how far i can push it with my fingers? one of my friends said it shouldn't go all the way back- that that will choke it and not allow any air in? but that really makes no sense to me and neither one of us are mechanics! haha

.....Maybe it's time to move to the city and get a bus pass scarlett....

 

Naa, it should open up all the way. I think you're on the right track there. I've thought about pulling the cable at the pedal and crimping a ferrule on to take the slack out. Aluminium Ferrules Either that or figure out what's bent. Slamming the gas would do it. Bought this thing used, so who knows what happened.

 

hahahaha I would have tried this today if he hadn't disagreed... now i've got a tranny pan hanging on for dear life above the exhaust pipe after taking a cross member bar to my elbow... and I'll need to jack the tranny even more I guess to get that SOB pan off (been scared to jack too much cause I'm a weenie!) and get a new gasket back on refill and everything just to test the throttle cable! I'm just going to have to breakdown and go buy an ohm meter so I can test those solenoids while I've got the pan off. Might take me a bit to get back to you on this one!

 

Uh, I hate to break the bad news to ya but, if a solenoid is open or shorted, it'll set a DTC in memory, (don't have to wrestle with the pan for that.)

 

the check engine light isn't connected for some ungodly reason, finally figured this out after dash removal. I've been told the professional scanner tool should have been able to get them anyway via the PCM, but have also been told that without the light you can't get any codes. I would tend to believe the computer should have had them anyway when my mechanic plugged the scanner up for the diagnostic drive, but alas, nothing.

When I got the pan down most the way the gasket started coming off in pieces. I didn't see any sign of leakage before removing it- don't know if that's normal, but oh well.. it gets a new gasket.

 

If memory serves correct, the check engine light is an LED soldered to the printed circuit board, rather than a bulb. Provided the scan tool can communicate with the network, it will retrieve trouble codes whether the light is working or not.

Long as you have the pan down, a new gasket and a filter are in order. ~$20 and the new gasket is rubber.