My '02 4d, 4wd has leaked oil for years and I am tired of it. I did determine it is the rear main seal leaking, plus the front cover is leaking as well.

So my understanding is that I will need to; remove driveshafts, drop the transfer case then the transmission, next lower the front diff enough so I can get the oil pan off. Remove the water pump (after draining the radiator) then take the front cover off.

Does this pretty much hit the highlights of what I am looking at...just to stop the oil drips?

Working alone, what amount of time am I looking at here? I will be doing the job in my garage.

Appreciate any insight before I start this task at the end of May.

UPDATE: I found a YouTube video of a guy working in his driveway and WOW am I in for ALOT of work. And from this video I gather there is a trans bolt on the driver's side that is next to impossible to get to. He drilled a hole through the cab in order to get this bolt off. Hopefully I will be able to find another way.

Already beginning to think the oil drips are not all that bad..................................

 

If you take out the transfer case and crossmember(s), the transmission will come down far enough to get at that bolt. Rear main seal is accessed from the rear of the engine. You do not have to remove the oil pan to replace the rear main seal which fits in a bracket that bolts around the crankshaft where it comes out of the block behind the flex plate. You will need a special driver to install it correctly - I bought a used Kent-Moore one for $100+. I ruined the first one that I tried to put in without the tool.

If you intend to do the rear main, the oil pan, and the front cover - you might as well cut the hole behind the accelerator pedal, pull the engine with transmission in place, put engine on a stand and do it right. Don't forget you have to replace the plastic timing cover (can't be re-used) and do a CASE relearn once the crank sensor is disturbed. Once you take off the timing cover you will want to replace the timing gears and chain. Then you might as well put the upgrade timing chain tensioner on it. Then do the remote oil filter hoses and the broken drivers side motor mount while engine is out.

Hint, if you pull the engine with trans in place (I call it peeling a 4.3 out of a Blazer), with radiator/shroud removed, remove passenger side exhaust manifold and take steering column loose at the gear for clearance. Remove A/C compressor and zip tie back on evaporator case with lines attached. Remove P/S pump on it's bracket and zip tie in corner ahead of P/S gear. Remove alternator and it's bracket completely. Remove AIR pump to exhaust manifol tubes. Unplug wiring from underside of underhood relay center and zip tie back in evap case area. Don't try to remove EGR tube from the drivers exhaust manifold (if you have one). Your biggest challenge will be getting the fuel line clamp at the rear of the drivers side head and all of the groud straps off at the rear of both heads. Hint... wait until you move the engine forward a few inches with the hoist - then it is easy. Throw the fuel line clamp away. Also of difficulty will be the top two bellhousing bolts on the driver's side. zip a small flap appropriately positioned behind the accelerator pedal and bend it back for access to the lower of these two bellhousing bolts. Pull the distributor, knock sensor, and oil pressure sensor out to get the top bellhousing bolt 1/16 turn at a time with a short combo wrench. Be prepared to lose at least one wrench on top of the transmission. Note that oil pan goes back on exactly flush with the rear of the engine. Use a straight-edge or you are asking for trans problems.

 

Les thanks for the respone...WOW!!...
I say you are correct in that I might as well just pull the engine out and do it right. I did not know about the tool for the rear main seal, will have to go look for one, along with an engine stand and hoist. I sold those two many years ago when I thought I would never ever do another engine pull, time to search CraigsList.

Is J-35621-B the correct Kent-Moore tool I need to find?

I did know about the front cover and CASE relearn.

Going to put this job on hold until I obtain the tools and get all the parts...which will likely be after the daily temps are above 100°F...so probably on hold until Fall.

Thanks again.

 

Yep, that's the tool. Good luck! PM me if you can't find one used and we will work something out.

Les

 

don't say or think never ever - it has a way of bittin ya in the future - lol

 

I did the same thing - sold my hoist and engine stand. Then I bought my V8 S10 and my Blazer........

 

I have a heavy duty engine stand that I built in the 70s in high school and have drug it around all these years, and I now own two engine hoists - you would be amazed what they can be used for, but I also have a large shop so storage is not a problem
Also notice I have my son removing the tire and I'm the one taking the pics lol

 

Did a quick CraigsList search and see that hoists and stands seem to have increased in value as all the used ones I came across were much higher priced than what I sold mine for. And appears that there is little difference between new and used prices....

I see some "Wheel'en - Deal'en" in my future.

 

You can always buy new and then sell if you don't want to keep. Puts you on the other side of what you describe. This is how I justified paying $100+ for a rear main seal tool!

 

Could always rent a hoist for a day....around here it's about $50