tuning-up 99 blazer
#1
tuning-up 99 blazer
I have been reading though the different threads and have a few questions.
it seems that when someone does the new cap & rotor and new wires it doesn't seem to help their performance issues they are chasing. it seem to come back to the MAF or catalytic converters plugging up or the fuel pump on these blazers. or they have the demons in their fuel gauge which come back to the fuel pump most generally.
it seems that when someone does the new cap & rotor and new wires it doesn't seem to help their performance issues they are chasing. it seem to come back to the MAF or catalytic converters plugging up or the fuel pump on these blazers. or they have the demons in their fuel gauge which come back to the fuel pump most generally.
- does the "SeaFoam" in the crankcase before a oil change really help that much, at the car lot we used to use "Berryman Chemtool B12" to remove build up of sludge and it worked pretty good, is the SeaFoam better?
- does the "SeaFoam" in the fuel tank work as good as the "Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner" as read in other threads?
- does "Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner" really help fuel level sending unit work again?
- Back in my old car lot days we used to put a bottle of Castrol Syntec in place of one quart of oil, in rough idling engines to smooth them up and made the engines run cooler. is this true with 4.3 V6 motors? (piston slap, lifter noise, rough idles)
#2
First bookmark this:
https://blazerforum.com/forum/tech-a...leaning-40420/
Follow those directions and that takes car of the MAF ... unless it's noisy. search youtube.
I wouldnt put anything volatile as seafoam in the crankcase. You really dont know what's in there. And the Mobil1 will clean up the crankcase. Change filter at 1000 and 3000 at first.
Syntec aint magic, I used both with my SVO turbo 2.3 and liked Mobil1 better. Check the jug price at Walmart and see if that isnt damn reasonable.. considering you can drive it 10,000 miles between.. depending.
I dunno if Seafoanm is better in the topside than Techron.. I guess it's more spectacular. I'd just do it in tank and change filters before and after.
https://blazerforum.com/forum/tech-a...leaning-40420/
Follow those directions and that takes car of the MAF ... unless it's noisy. search youtube.
I wouldnt put anything volatile as seafoam in the crankcase. You really dont know what's in there. And the Mobil1 will clean up the crankcase. Change filter at 1000 and 3000 at first.
Syntec aint magic, I used both with my SVO turbo 2.3 and liked Mobil1 better. Check the jug price at Walmart and see if that isnt damn reasonable.. considering you can drive it 10,000 miles between.. depending.
I dunno if Seafoanm is better in the topside than Techron.. I guess it's more spectacular. I'd just do it in tank and change filters before and after.
#3
One reason replacing the cap, rotor, plugs, and wires doesn't work for many people is because they install cheap quality inferior parts that aren't any better than the worn out OEM parts they take off! If you want to go through the motions of a tune up, and don't care how it runs when you're done, go to autozone, you can get real cheap parts there. If you're planning on keeping the vehicle, and you want it to run properly, use AC Delco parts. This is especially true when it comes to spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor and the fuel pump.
Another reason is misdiagnosis. There are several members here on the forum that are professional technicians that do this everyday for a living. We can help you with the proper diagnostic and repair procedures so you can repair your vehicle the right way, and replace only the parts that need replacement. We can recommend a certain brand of part to use, (or not to use) and in many cases, we can give you the part number as well. Any way you look at it, you save money, and learn things about your vehicle.
Another reason is misdiagnosis. There are several members here on the forum that are professional technicians that do this everyday for a living. We can help you with the proper diagnostic and repair procedures so you can repair your vehicle the right way, and replace only the parts that need replacement. We can recommend a certain brand of part to use, (or not to use) and in many cases, we can give you the part number as well. Any way you look at it, you save money, and learn things about your vehicle.
#4
update
progress so far,
changed the timing cover seal
changed the oil and added Lucas oil additive
changed out the belt tensioner and idler pulley
Replace serpentine belt
Cleaned the MAF
done fuel pressure test key-on engine off test 63 lbs. 15 minutes only dropped to 55 lbs.
changed the timing cover seal
changed the oil and added Lucas oil additive
changed out the belt tensioner and idler pulley
Replace serpentine belt
Cleaned the MAF
done fuel pressure test key-on engine off test 63 lbs. 15 minutes only dropped to 55 lbs.
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