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Turn Popping/binding in 2wd

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Old Jan 4, 2013 | 04:55 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by coolasice
mine both sit closer to .15 and are on the verge of being toe in.
+.15 degrees is already toe in, (too far). If they're both at +.15 degrees, your total toe is +.3 degrees. Maximum total toe should not exceed .1 degrees, in either direction. As far as how many degrees per rotation of the sleeve, I don't have a clue. You might start with 1/10 of a turn and measure it.
 
Old Jan 5, 2013 | 06:13 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Captain Hook
+.15 degrees is already toe in, (too far). If they're both at +.15 degrees, your total toe is +.3 degrees. Maximum total toe should not exceed .1 degrees, in either direction. As far as how many degrees per rotation of the sleeve, I don't have a clue. You might start with 1/10 of a turn and measure it.

My original plan was to try to turn each equal amounts to try to center my steering wheel, then adjust each a slight amount out, then have a alignment check done (free at the local sears).
 
Old Jan 7, 2013 | 04:53 PM
  #23  
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the toe in/out would need to be far more than .15 to make it 'pop' as you describe. it would wear the tires though. I would question the alignment shops work if it had an alignment and does as you describe. GM did a poor job of the steering geometry on these trucks, they will always scrub tires.

low tire pressure, ball joints, tie rod ends, control arm bushings, wheel bearing, cracked ring in outer CV, loose wheel...
 
Old Jan 8, 2013 | 05:05 AM
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the popping is gone (greased the steering stops).. it's just the hopping to the side that I do not like, but the left tire is at ~.10 and the right at ~.14 which makes total toe ~.24... that would account for the hopping sideways at full lock... but the hunter alignment system shows that as being within specifications.... the only loose parts left are the lower control arm bushings. tie rods, ball joints, idler arm, pitman arm, upper control arm bushings, cvs, all in good condition.

I have never had an alignment done to the vehicle, only had it checked in july when it went in for inspection.
 

Last edited by coolasice; Jan 8, 2013 at 07:40 PM.
Old Jan 8, 2013 | 05:01 PM
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I took a couple of 80 hour classes at Hunter Engineering in St. Louis a few years ago, and although their equipment is second to none, I'd trust the GM shop manual spec on this one
 
Old Jan 8, 2013 | 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Captain Hook
I took a couple of 80 hour classes at Hunter Engineering in St. Louis a few years ago, and although their equipment is second to none, I'd trust the GM shop manual spec on this one
I plan on getting a proper alignment done this spring.. but only after I get all the front end parts in 100% condition.
 

Last edited by coolasice; Jan 8, 2013 at 07:39 PM. Reason: speelliing
Old Jan 8, 2013 | 07:46 PM
  #27  
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Don't forget to have them check & adjust front chassis ride height BEFORE doing the alignment.
 
Old Jan 8, 2013 | 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Captain Hook
Don't forget to have them check & adjust front chassis ride height BEFORE doing the alignment.
I plan on doing a bit of t-bar crank to level out with rear, maybe 1/4"-3/4" as I think it's sagging to begin with. but will have it properly checked once it's on the alignment lift.
 
Old Jan 8, 2013 | 08:17 PM
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Keep in mind, that if ride height is out of spec, those new parts that you install will wear out prematurely
 
Old Jan 8, 2013 | 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Captain Hook
Keep in mind, that if ride height is out of spec, those new parts that you install will wear out prematurely
oh yes, well aware... i've done plenty of research
 



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