Upper Control Arms Replacement
#21
04-10-2016, 11:53 AM
Do the upper ball joints have grease fittings? If so, keep them greased up! If not, watch them closely for wear. 10K miles is about all you can expect from them.
#22
04-16-2016, 05:08 AM
CRAP!!....no grease fittings.!!....appears I just wasted some $$$$ and time putting these Moog parts on.
Good thing I kept the original control arms. I will be cleaning them up, installing new ball joints and bushings to have them "at the ready" when needed.
And I thought getting these Moog parts was a "good" thing; I could have spent 30% less on cheaper ones.
Another lesson learned....the expensive way!
Good thing I kept the original control arms. I will be cleaning them up, installing new ball joints and bushings to have them "at the ready" when needed.
And I thought getting these Moog parts was a "good" thing; I could have spent 30% less on cheaper ones.
Another lesson learned....the expensive way!
#25
04-19-2016, 10:17 AM
I will need to take a look. According to the picture of the control arms I purchased from RockAuto there is a grease joint to be screwed in....I sure do not remember doing that nor remember seeing a hole or plug for a grease fitting.
Going to go take a look.
Going to go take a look.
#27
04-22-2016, 07:44 AM
I remember when the less expensive suspension products had the 'plugs' which were a small threaded bolt that you could unscrew and then screw in a grease fitting. Simple and cheap to upgrade to a greasable fitting. The new style of 'no plugs, no choice' is not a good turn. This is a continuation of the disposable products.
#28
02-13-2018, 05:38 PM
I schmacked my driver front wheel on a curb recently and threw my steering wheel to 12:30 and gave me some extra camber as well (2wd). I plan on replacing the upper control arm (which has a worn bushing anyway) and BJ, so I followed LannyL81's experience on this thread to learn how. Of course the problem may not end with a new CA, I am suspicious of the idler arm and tie rods too.
Is there a special advantage to replacing these at the same time as the UCA? Otherwise I'll just wait and see if replacing the UCA fixes everything.
Last edited by puttster; 02-13-2018 at 07:00 PM. Reason: 2wd
#29
02-13-2018, 09:33 PM
I would say there is some advantage in that the front end is in the air, wheels/tires off, and a bit more room with the UCA out, possibly shock and good chance you will lose the alignment doing the tie rod ends; you will doing the UCAs...so might as well do all at once and pay for only one alignment.
Just remember that the 2wd front end is different from my 4wd.
Just remember that the 2wd front end is different from my 4wd.
#30
11-16-2019, 12:02 PM
Proper parts
Uppers are a piece of cake. Jack stands under the frame. No need to disassemble the caliper & rotor. Loosen the ball joint nut so the stud is flush with the nut. Use a pickle fork to seperate the stud from the knuckle, then remove the nut. Be aware that the upper arm will jump up, and the lower arm will drop an inch or so when you remove the nut. Mark the cams so you can install them in the same position when you reassemble. That will keep camber & caster as close as possible. It will still need an alignment when you're done though. When reassembling, use a jack under the lower ball joint to raise the knuckle up so you can engage the upper ball joint stud back into the knuckle. Nuttin' to it 
P.S - its a 99 lt 4x4 (2nd gen s-10 blazer)