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Urgently need help!

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  #11  
Old 06-05-2011 | 10:43 PM
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"...almost rusted through...". Any chance something could have made it into the fuel line past the filter?
 
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Old 06-05-2011 | 10:44 PM
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Where do you recommend getting this? I just looked at autozone and they seemed pretty expensive, How cheap do you think I can get one for? I'm just kinda running out of money to spend on this.. I've got enough to replace a bad sensor if I find on but thats about it. Also when I release the pressure in the lines today before the fuel filter it seemed to have a lot of pressure, I had to hold a towel over it to keep it from squirting all over the engine compartment
 
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Old 06-05-2011 | 10:45 PM
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Does anyone think this could be my CAT? it's been rattling for a couple months, I just don't see how it could out of know where make the car hardly run. I mean it was running great... then crap. and all I did was clean it out in between

EDIT I know were not supposed to double post, I don't now how to delete this and add it into what I said before though, sorry!
 
  #14  
Old 06-06-2011 | 07:31 AM
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You need to have 60 psi from the fuel pump...not 50. The leak down test proves several components...Not just the regulator and injector assembly - FYI.

When you key on the truck, does the check engine light come on? It is supposed too. If not, check the bulb.

Congrats on buying your Multimeter. Its one of the best tools in your tool box. It does take a little while to learn how to use it, but once you do, you wont know how you lived without it.

If the truck isnt throwing any codes, you really need to do that live data scan!
I had a bad FTP sensor that would kill the signal to my EGR, TPS, MAF and one other I cant remember. It only happened occasionally. Doing the live scan i was able to see what was happening as it happened. Priceless!

Keep researching! Good Luck!
 
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Old 06-06-2011 | 02:29 PM
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Thanks for the replys guys, I'm still working on learning to use the mulitmeter. But I've come across some issues, I'm 100% sure it's my cat now. I've talked to a couple people and had a car savy family friend come over, theres hardly any flow from the tail pipe and it doesn't increase when the engine is revved. He seems to think a piece or two actually broke off and got jammed past the CAT in the tail pipe which I hear is pretty bad.. I got a quote on replacing just the cat today and the guy at monroe muffler wanted 600$ which seems wayy over priced. He also said I shouldn't replace the converter until I figure out why it clogged and cracked. I know it cracked or broke because it's been rattling for months, So now i'm wondering what could be wrong with my truck to make the cat break? The truck, (in my opinion) ran great, it had a slight vibration if I revved it around 1.5 rpms that i'd been chasing down but thats it.. and is this something I could do myself with the universal cat? I'm not that mechanically inclined but I'm always willing to read directions and try!

Edit, After looking at it so more, I'm almost positive I have pieces of the CAT lodged threwout my muffler, Anyone have suggestions on how I can get this out?
 

Last edited by Jakethegreat440; 06-06-2011 at 05:39 PM.
  #16  
Old 06-06-2011 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by wadespen
"...almost rusted through...". Any chance something could have made it into the fuel line past the filter?

No i don't think so, It wasn't all the way. you could just tell it'd been a loonng time since someone changed it..
 
  #17  
Old 06-06-2011 | 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by kristoph30
You need to have 60 psi from the fuel pump...not 50. The leak down test proves several components...Not just the regulator and injector assembly - FYI.

When you key on the truck, does the check engine light come on? It is supposed too. If not, check the bulb.

Congrats on buying your Multimeter. Its one of the best tools in your tool box. It does take a little while to learn how to use it, but once you do, you wont know how you lived without it.

If the truck isnt throwing any codes, you really need to do that live data scan!
I had a bad FTP sensor that would kill the signal to my EGR, TPS, MAF and one other I cant remember. It only happened occasionally. Doing the live scan i was able to see what was happening as it happened. Priceless!

Keep researching! Good Luck!
No the light doesn't come on at all, But i've been wondering why. The thing is for awhile the key used to get stuck in the ignition. They only way to get it out was to take the battery off, turn the key and plug the battery back in. Well the last time the key got stuck (which has been an oddly long time) I put the battery back in and the speedometer went nuts! it'd never done that before and I'd been doing the whole key routine for quite awhile.. Now the key doesn't get stuck. but the check engine light mysteriously went away to never be seen. I took it to get the codes scanned and a couple come up and go away everytime I do it.. I tried to get a Echeck and they picked up codes too.. Does this sound like a bulb? I'm worried when I plugged the battery in with the key turned it finally screwed something up. And is there a cheap way to do a live data scan? I'm like freaking about this car now with the check engine light problem and the cat, and now wondering why the cat cracked !
 
  #18  
Old 06-07-2011 | 11:25 AM
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I have heard a rattling cat is common on these trucks. I had to replace mine cuz it just drove me nuts. You can unbolt the muffler from the cat, weasel the whole thing out from under the truck and see if there really are chunks in there. Just turn it upside down and shake. Start the truck see what happens, if the cat is plugged you would be able hear/see whats going on inside.

I would check for a burned out light bulb. Im surprised it passed e-check. Here is the check engine light doesnt work its an instant fail.
 
  #19  
Old 06-07-2011 | 03:32 PM
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Yeah I'm about positive it thats whats going on but I'll probably do that too be sure, As for the E check it failed instantly too so thats the other problem to deal with after I get it too run!
 
  #20  
Old 06-07-2011 | 07:45 PM
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I second checking the fuel pressure could be a fuel pump about to go bad.
 


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