Vacume line
#21
Thank you again Captain I will check on ebay for the prices of better scanners but if 40 warm ups is what it takes to erase the memory or set a code if there is a problem then for rite now I will do the 40 warm ups.This is the only monitor that I have had trouble with like this once before and the problem was the gas cap and it did take almost two weeks to have it reset itself.
#22
Captain I was looking at the Innova manual and there is 7 IM,s that require 40 warm ups to clear the memory after the mill has been turned off.Even though I didn't turn it off it was turned off by the PCM or the OBC and after that I erased the generic DTC witch in turn left only the 40 warm ups to clear the remaining codes in memory or a more expensive tester to clear all three memories.There is also 3 IM,s that require 80 warm up,s or all three memories erased.So can you recommend a good tester but not real expensive because its for my use only for someone that enjoys doing all there own work and don't take their car to the shop unless there is know other choice.
#23
If you have a laptop, the Autoenginuity software program would be an excellent choice. It will access far more data streams, modules, and functional commands than a hand held for the same money. Autoenginuity does have some bidirectional capabilities. A hand held scanner with the same capabilities would cost substantially more than the Autoenginuity. Prices vary but usually under ~$700 complete.
If you would rather not use a laptop, Ebay would be the place to start looking for a used scanner. There are many manufacturers to choose from. Snap On Solus, Solus Pro, & Solus Ultra are all very good scanners and they are readilly available which tends to keep the price down. The drawback with most higher end scanners is that the annual software updates are expensive, ($1K). You don't need to purchase them every year, but you do need to make sure that the version that is installed on it covers your year of vehicle, and that it comes with the necessary hardware & accessories. Prices vary here too, but expect them to start just over $1K and go up from there depending on software level and accessories included with it.
Keep in mind with either set up, a scanner is like a book: If you don't understand what you're reading, it doesn't do you much good to have it A scanner will not tell you what the problem is: It will show you data that will help YOU find the problem.
If you would rather not use a laptop, Ebay would be the place to start looking for a used scanner. There are many manufacturers to choose from. Snap On Solus, Solus Pro, & Solus Ultra are all very good scanners and they are readilly available which tends to keep the price down. The drawback with most higher end scanners is that the annual software updates are expensive, ($1K). You don't need to purchase them every year, but you do need to make sure that the version that is installed on it covers your year of vehicle, and that it comes with the necessary hardware & accessories. Prices vary here too, but expect them to start just over $1K and go up from there depending on software level and accessories included with it.
Keep in mind with either set up, a scanner is like a book: If you don't understand what you're reading, it doesn't do you much good to have it A scanner will not tell you what the problem is: It will show you data that will help YOU find the problem.
Last edited by Captain Hook; 04-21-2015 at 03:15 PM.
#24
These warm up cycles are getting old to try an reset the ob ll car diagnostics system I was told to disconnect the positive cable for ten seconds and it would clear all codes so before I try some thing stupid that wont work anyway I am going to put it to you Captain Hook someones opinion I have come to trust.So far.And all the drive cycles that I have done to no avail and no hard code that the Innova can see I know it will take a better scan tool to erase the other memory's or will disconnecting the positive for ten seconds actually work.
Anyone else care to answer the question maybe captain Hook inst available to answer.If you haven't followed the issue I have a 2003 blazer L/S 4.3 liter the Evap IM keeps flashing no mater how many drive cycles I take it on.with no hard code or mill light please help if you can.
Anyone else care to answer the question maybe captain Hook inst available to answer.If you haven't followed the issue I have a 2003 blazer L/S 4.3 liter the Evap IM keeps flashing no mater how many drive cycles I take it on.with no hard code or mill light please help if you can.
Last edited by johnnylovsey; 04-21-2015 at 07:29 PM.
#26
ATTN, Captain Hook
I started my blazer this morning for its 20th of 40 warm ups yellow light still and the EVAP IM,s still blinking I drove to Costco for some shopping then on my way back I decided to stop at O'Reillys auto parts to see if they had a better tester to erase the other memory's in the PCM they didn't but a guy in line said he used to turn on the ignition step on the gas pedal three times and the fourth time press and hold for a couple three minutes in his wife,s trail blazer and I thought at this point it couldn't hurt so I gave it a try turned on the ignition pressed down on the throttle three times and on the fourth press held it for 2 or 3 minutes then I came home once the car cooled down enough to start it for a warm up I plunged in the Innova and it was now green all IM,s run ready.Could the pressing the throttle like the guy in line said reset the EVAP monitor.Have you ever heard of anything like that working to reset the IM,monitors or was it just a fluke.
I started my blazer this morning for its 20th of 40 warm ups yellow light still and the EVAP IM,s still blinking I drove to Costco for some shopping then on my way back I decided to stop at O'Reillys auto parts to see if they had a better tester to erase the other memory's in the PCM they didn't but a guy in line said he used to turn on the ignition step on the gas pedal three times and the fourth time press and hold for a couple three minutes in his wife,s trail blazer and I thought at this point it couldn't hurt so I gave it a try turned on the ignition pressed down on the throttle three times and on the fourth press held it for 2 or 3 minutes then I came home once the car cooled down enough to start it for a warm up I plunged in the Innova and it was now green all IM,s run ready.Could the pressing the throttle like the guy in line said reset the EVAP monitor.Have you ever heard of anything like that working to reset the IM,monitors or was it just a fluke.
Last edited by johnnylovsey; 04-21-2015 at 10:45 PM.
#27
That's a new one to me. I've never read anything like that in any GM publication. I would say the monitor completed, and it was coincidental. My advice is to thank your lucky stars, and go get the emission test ASAP
Last edited by Captain Hook; 04-22-2015 at 01:58 PM.
#28
Once you have resolved your issue regardless how do you erase these strings or does someone else do it in time, Captain hook are you not going to comment on the gas pedal three then press and hold on the fourth with key in on position was that just coincidence or something gm don't want you to know about because now my blazer is emission ready.
#29
I've used that procedure to reset the "change oil" light on newer GM vehicles. Except it's key on, press gas pedal 3 times, wait a few seconds, then key off. Maybe the 4th press and hold does reset the EVAP monitor.
#30
Ok Captain the monitor has been great since last week with know mill lights or DTC codes in memory but my question was with the Innova tester you can only erase the first memory current faults I believe but my question since I wont be able to buy a thousand dollar tester to erase the other two codes in memory history files and pending files not now because when the Evap monitor reset they were more than likely cleared but if this happens again will disconnecting the positive battery post for 30 seconds clear all three or at least the two that the Innova wont erase.Please respond If facing this issue again that was the longest issue with a monitor I have ever dealt with and now that makes twice and if only I could erase all three memories and then conduct the GM Drive cycle my issue would have been solved.And you can be sure I would never erase any DTC,s in memory until I figured out rather it was a problem first and then as a last resort erase all three memories so the drive cycle can be performed to reset the monitors.