If you can feel it clicking only when you pull the cable and rotate the wheel, the problem is with the clutch mechanism. We can go on speculating for days, bottom line is if you want to fix it, disassemble it and figure out what parts you need. All of the parts are available through GMpartsdirect.com or any GM dealer. If you can find a boneyard with a good axle housing assembly, (like in your image above) compare prices and make a decision, new or used.

 

yea im getting ready to disassemble it like you said
i just want to understand everything i can about it before i do (especially what the parts are and the cost it will be in a worst case scenario)
i mean after all it is driving in 2WD

could you tell me or someone tell me what is involved in removing that housing/assembly in that picture ?
i mean do i need to take the diff cover off and go in from the center to be able to get that assy off like in that picture?

does it just unbolt (6 bolts) and then pull out with that actuator and gears and fork and sleeve all in one motion?

will this let all the oil out when i remove that assy?

i looked on youtube for a video but i cant seem to find one showing that RF axle coming off this blazer or close to it.

thanks for any info
i am going to remove it but i want it to go pretty smooth so i am researching now

check out this awesome video

 

The video brings up a good point about the vacuum switch on the transfer case... it is most likely the root cause of the problem that you have with torn up gears.

Remove the right half shaft, (the most time consuming part of the entire job) then work your way inward. Once the half shaft is out, you've got about 15 minutes of work to remove the housing. Do yourself favor and replace the axle seal along with the shift cable housing seal while it's all apart.

 

is the front diff a "NV243" or "NP1" 7 1/2" ring gear?

do you know what years (the range) that i can look for so when i look in boneyards i will be able to know if it will work?

i have a 1999 blazer LS 4.3L 3button automatic 4x4 4 door

 

The transfer case is a NV233 2 speed selectable.

For the differential information, I'll need all of the RPO codes that start with the letter "G". RPO stands for Regular Production Options. Each option the vehicle is equipped with, is assigned a 3 character code. The RPO code sticker is attached to the glove box door.

edit: check your inbox for private message

 

RPO Codes
what is the RPO code the "NV233 2 speed selectable"?
GU6 = 3.42 gearing
NP1 = Electronic Shift
M30 = 4L60-E but there are alot of different versions
"M30 Transmission, 4-speed automatic
M30 Transmission: 4L60-E, 4-Speed Automatic, Electronic
M30 Transmission – 4 Speed Auto W/ Electric Controls L.D. (Hydra-Matic 4L60-E)
M30 Transmission MAN 5 SPD, NVG, 109MM, 5.61 1ST, O/D
M30 Transmission Auto 4-Speed, HMD, 4L60-E, Electronic
M30 TRANSMISSION AUTO 4 SPD, HMD, 4L60-E, ELECTRONIC"

it would be great to know the exact model numbers of my read and front diff
i think my rear diff has 8 1/2" ring gear and my front diff has 7 1/2" but i really dont know

 

RPO code NP1 means that the vehicle was originally equipped with an NV233 transfer case. NV, (New Venture) formerly NP, (New Process) makes transfer cases for several automotive manufactures, GM, Ford, Chrysler, Jeep, etc. Sometimes you'll see a letter after the model number, for example: NV233C means it was used in a Chevrolet, NV233J means it was used in a Jeep. It's the same transfer case with modifications to fit the specific vehicle application. These links explain the numbering systems: http://www.lunghd.com/Downloads_and_...tification.pdf

BC4x4.COM four wheel drive, 4x4, offroad and fourwheeling site.

 

Captain Hook

here are some pics
im just adding a link to them as they are really big

CV Axle and more - Imgur

i think the clutch sleeve is in pretty good shape

the half axle gear is in pretty bad shape
im trying to file the ridges / burrs whatever you call it just for the heck of it

the other gear that stay with the differential (drive gear)? was almost pulled out i think
i had to fidget with it and push it back in O_o
not sure if that is correct or not

not to bad of wear on the other parts in the pics from what i could see

something else that was kind of strange was i unplugged the vacuum actuator on the front diff but i removed all 5 bolts (when i should have just removed the 3 then removed that then unscrewed then pull it out enough to lift the wire to release it completely from the diff axle tube

how i did it i removed all 5 bolts and the 2 big nuts that hold the complete axle tube assy on
so it was all hanging down and i couldnt remove that vacuum actuator thing to easy (in videos it shows people lift up on that wire to release the cable but i looked and looked and couldnt find it (i think it was pushed in or something
i had about on inch or so to look at that shaft and i couldnt see it anywhere
so i wound up just pulling on that assemble a little to hard and it just released

so not sure if that is damaged or not.

btw got an extra clutch gear you want to get rid of?

i finished filing down that gear and the sleeve/coupling slides over it pretty nice
i know some if the "length of the tooth" but im betting it will work pretty good
i would still much prefer a gear in better shape
gonna see what developes
i would also take a bravada shaft

 

So you got it out on the floor, and found the problem... good job! The link to imgur says there are no "public" images to view. Better re check your settings on the web site.

 

changed link above and adding it here just to make it easy
CV Axle and more - Imgur