ok now everytime i step on the gas it sounds like theres a bunch of water rushin towards me and i have no clue where it is at. it sounds like its comin from the front of the vehicle but when i turn it sounds like its runnin from side to side through the dash. i dont think its the heater core cuz i have good heat comin out and theres no water leakin inside the truck anywhere or outside for that matter. any ideas? its a 96 s10 4.3 v6 4x4 "w" type engine. oh and i still cant figure out which sensor is givin me the code that says its gettin a slow response causin code p0133 to come on or the p1133 code either. any help would be appreciated thank you

 

I know exactly what you are talking about, but I can't remember, for the life of me, what we did to fix the problem. My father's '94 K2500 Pickup with a TBI 350 had this exact problem, but it doesn't anymore...

Does the engine temp rise normally and then stay at the t-stat temp? This is for sure a baffling problem and we had just dealt with it on my fathers truck, but I know that it isn't there anymore...

On the code...
P0133 - O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response - Bank 1 Sensor 1 - As they state in that link, it can be caused by faulty sensor or wiring and also could result from an exhaust leak. Bank 1 is the side of the engine that has the #1 cylinder (driver's side on the 4.3L I believe) and Sensor 1 is the sensor closest to the exhaust manifold itself.

DTC P1133 HO2S Insufficient Switching Bank 1 Sensor 1

The combination of those 2 codes leads me to believe that you either have an exhaust leak making the sensor read too lean, demanding more fuel, or you have a defective sensor. If you rule out the exhaust leak, then you'll have to replace the sensor. I always advise to replace both the upstream sensors (Bank1Sensor1 & Bank2Sensor1) at the same time (if so equiped) because they both control the fuel requirements of the engine. Running too rich is a waste of money, but running too lean could blow your engine.

I'd bet money on the fact that your driver's side O2 sensor is bad. The attached image shows the firing order and the location of the #1 cylinder (on the driver's side).

Also, I would only recommend replacing the O2 sensors with genuine AC Delco parts. The aftermarket sensors just don't last as long or switch as fast as the AC Delco ones do. I have an AutoTap diagnostic tool that I can graph the sensor readings on and I can tell the difference between a brand new AC Delco sensor and say a new Bosche sensor.

You can purchase them from GMPartsDirect.com (but get hammered with high s&h), Your local dealership (but get hammered by high prices), RockAuto.com (great price & decent s&h), or if you have a local AC Delco store you'll get the great price and no s&h. Good Luck!

You may also want to change out the plugs again (for the little that they cost) when you do the O2 sensor(s). Bad plugs can ruin (over time) good O2 sensors and visa-versa.

Good Luck!

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Quick easy way to test the O2 sensors. Disconnect them, if the engine smoothes out, its your sensor. If not the problem lies elsewhere.

Heres why it works. The pcm takes readings off the O2 sensors and adjusts the fuel/air mixture accordingly. If you disconnect all the O2 sensors the computer will go into a default mode, a preset mode. It will run and get you where you need to go. The downside is your gas mileage will drop like a rock.

A stuck or fualty EGR will sometimes trip the O2 code.