I completely disconnected it and it was the passenger side I removed.

Just got back from another drive. Unplugged the MAF and started it. It fired up no problems. I hit the highway and the damn thing ran great. I plugged the MAF back in while the truck was running and did another test run and still ran perfect. I still have the o2 sensor out also. I am going to let it cool down a bit, put the o2 back in, and then go take for another spin to see if it still runs good.

I am confused as hell now. This thing is driving me nuts.

 

How long did you run it without the O2 sensor in? Maybe it didn't have time to completely correct?...

 

I ran it for only a few minutes at first. Turned around quick because it wouldn't accelerate hardly at all. Then I unplugged the MAF and went for another spin and it ran perfect. I am going to go put the o2 back in and see how it runs.

EDIT: Just did a seafoam treatment for the hell of it. Put the o2 back in and unplugged the MAF. Went for a drive and it ran like a raped ape. Hopefully that narrows it down the MAF sensor being bad or a bad connection of sorts. I am going to swap MAF's with one of my buddies next weekend when I see him and see how that works out. What's weird is that when I plug the MAF back in while the truck is running it still runs good. Once I shut the truck off and restart with the MAF plugged in it goes back to running like crap.

What will happen if I run the truck with the MAF unplugged until I can try another one? Also, would a bad MAF cause the truck to not start sometimes? The no start issue was obviously the reason I started the thread.

Thanks

 

Any info on running without the MAF? I am guessing it should be ok for a few days. Also, would the MAF being unplugged have anything to do with the transmission shifting harder? It seems to really hit hard on the 1-2, 2-3 shift now. Never noticed it doing that before this issue.

I also think I have a spark plug loose as the motor has a slight "tick" to it. I had some problems getting the # 5 plug in. Am going to recheck that tomorrow night as well as change the oil/filter.

 

The problem is back. After running good for a few days it is getting harder and harder to start. I am going to recheck the fuel pressure again and see what that tells me. Any other ideas?

 

Pushing this back up since there seems to be other threads that are similar.

My fuel pressure shoots up to 62 psi when the pump comes on. When it shuts off the pressure dropped very quickly to 0. I need to check the pressure at the fuel filter like mentioned in another thread. After looking at Alldata there were numerous fixes to my problem resulting in the replacement of the FPR. I hope that is all it is.

Also, could letting the truck sit out on the cold overnight cause it to leak more? When it is in the garage over night it starts up fine the next morning.

 

If you experience the same leak down at the filter, then the check valve in the pump assembly is at fault. The bad part about this is that the check valve is not independently replaceable.

If not, then you have isolated the issue to the spider assembly and the next step would be to try and find the leak. You could remove the throttle body and look inside with a mechanic's mirror and a flash light or you could remove the upper plenum and reinstall the fuel lines into the spider.