I have a 2001 blazer LS 4.3 RWD with 58,000 miles


The engine runs great! All new ignition parts and fuel filter.
When the engine is cold it will start instantly.
When the engine is hot it will re-start instantly if it is restarted within a few minutes.
If I turn off the engine hot and let it sit for 10 minutes to 2 hours it cranks for a long time before starting. (4 seconds, one onethousand, two onethousand...)


As it starts I can see a small poof of black smoke for less than second. To me that indicates burning a rich mixture at start up.
I had the same exact problem with my 84 Audi 5000 and it was my fuel injectors leaking after I turned off the car. For that car changing the injectors fixed that problem.


I am going to try some Techron fuel injector cleaner for a few tanks since this vehicle had sit a lot in it's past life, but usually that doesn't work.


So my question is: What turns off the fuel at the injector when you turn off the car. Is it the fuel injector itself, the spider fuel distributor, other?
Should I buy the Delphi 2173028 fuel injection assembly? If so, how hard is it to install?


Thanks for all response

 

I had a similar issue with mine last year. I tested the pump by itself, and it was good, so I figured the problem was under the hood.

I tried a new pressure regulator, but that didn't fix it, either. The spider assembly was less than two years old at the time, but it was a cheapy re-manufactured one.

I broke down and bought a new spider, and the problem was solved.

I figured that it was starting to go out, it would get heat soaked sitting with the engine off; and consequently no fuel flowing through it to keep it cool enough to run. After sitting for several hours, the engine cooled off enough to let it work again. And with a short , ~10 stop, it wasn't long enough to let it heat soak. Don't know if that was actually what was happening, but it seemed legit to me.

 

Hello Cleburn, thanks for the feedback. What other parts did you need to buy besides the spider assembly? Upper intake gaskets and ??? Was it simple to do? BTW, I also have a 1973 Volvo 1800ES project car and it's a BW automatic.

 

I'm not sure how similar your '01 is to my '95, but here's what I did.

If you change the spider, go ahead and replace the plastic fuel lines that are in the manifold. If they have recently been changed, you might be able to re-use them, but if they're old, they will leak if you mess with 'em.

Other than that, just the upper manifold gasket, and the spider (with regulator), and you should be good to go.

Also, after you get the spider replaced and everything hooked up, leave the manifold off, and energize the fuel pump at the test plug.* Let it sit awhile and make sure nothing is leaking before you button the manifold back up.

*on my '95 there is a female plug to connect 12v to run the pump. they changed it later. I forget how yours is set up, but I've seen it discussed on here. Look for posts by a guy named Captain Hook, he knows what he's talking about!

That's pretty cool you have an ES! Nobody I've talked to has any idea what a P1800 even is!

 

Thanks for the reply.


Are you on the 1800 list? (emails list by Yahoo)
If not, search and join.
They are a good group and can help you find parts and give you how-to tips.


Here is a link to a picture of my ES. It looks good at 10+ feet.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/29396384@N05/4779602296/

 

I know on my 98 highrider the coolant temp switch on drivers side head was bad & wouldn't allow truck to start, because it controls the pulses for the injectors.