My situation sounds similar. Could someone be a bit more specific as to which way the callipers sound be facing? My bleed screws are currently pointing almost straight up and slightly towards the rear of the vehicle. Does this sound correct?

 

Yes, the bleed screws should be pointing up.

 

I really need to look at the dates on these threads before I read them. I was just thinking to myself..."Self, This sounds familiar!" Well thats when i looked up and realized the threads was over a year old!

Crap!

 

calipers get mounted on opposite side for a 2wd and 4wd..

aka a left caliper for a 2wd would be for the right side of a 4wd.. I guess one mounts in front of the rotor, other mounts behind...


"18-B4712 Rear Brake Caliper 118.930 56.8268 90.0000

101-01 Reman Friction Choice Caliper w/Bracket

Rear; Left; Installation Hardware Incld; w/Mounting Bracket;

w/Phenolic Pistion Caliper; 4WD, 1 Per Veh; BASE

Rear; Right; Installation Hardware Incld; w/Mounting Bracket;

w/Phenolic Pistion Caliper; RWD, 1 Per Veh; Base
"


copy and pasted from lordco site...

 

People should continue to have issues with this if they follow the parts persons instructions. Whatever database they use to get this part, has it listed wrong. So when they tell you which goes where, they are telling you wrong. And some of us blindly follow their instructions. I sure did.

 

Did you fill the new caliper with fluid before installing?
Mark

 

I'm getting the same problem as Kimchoc on my 2000 Blazer 4wd . Its irritating as heck. I guess its time to see abut checking 4 a collapsed rear line

 

im having the same problem with my 01 trailblazer.just put 600 bucks to get brakes fixed and i still only have half pedalthree new master cylinders,2 new calipers. solid fluid when bled. still a spongy pedal. wtf?

 

Spongy pedal means one thing, there is air in the system. The master cylinder will need to be bench bled, then gravity bleed the entire system. Next, perform the automated bleed with a capable scan tool. Then gravity bleed again, then bleed as normal.

Each time the master is removed, air is allowed into the ABS unit. The ONLY way to get it out is with the automated bleed.

 

So I decided for the next guy that comes along and reads this when you change pads and rotors on a blazer you should clean and regrease the caliper slide pins and slap new bushings on and clean out the holes the pins slide in too. I was having the parking brake light come on after replacing pads and rotors and I had very ****ty brakes and lots of clunking and grinding. Clunking and grinding didn't start till about 3 months after I changed them. So I redid the brakes and cleaned and regreased the pins this time instead of skipping that step lol and now my brakes seem to be working good again with a nice hard pedal. hope that helps