In Pilgrim's DIY of replacing the gasket (https://blazerforum.com/m_47773/tm.htm) he doesn't mention taking the fan off.... is it really necessary? Also, Pilgrim mentions rotating the engine so the rotor's contact lines up with plug terminal #1 on the cap... while the D-tips tutorial just has you mark the rotor with white out. Is the D-tips tutorial missing some details that I should know about, or is it just going about it a different way? Sorry, I just want to get it done right the first time Thanks again for all your help, I appreciate it.

 

Removing the fan/clutch allows for more access for loosening and moving the driver's side accessory bracket. It can probably be done, but I found it just easier to get the fan out of there.

On the distributor, rotating around to compression #1 is a good way to do it, but so long as you mark the rotor tip postion before you pull it, and then the rotor tip position after it's out, it should go right back in without too much difficulty. The key is to mark the positions.

 

Usually you can rent specialty tools from Advance or Auto Zone for nothing. You pay the price for the tool and when you return the tool they credit your money back. Have done that quite a few times.

Also good walk through, I love reading walk through's that are done well.

 

the intake manifold gaskets aint that bad i had to replace mine one month after getting my blazer which sucked cause i just bought it but it runs better than ever k back on subject lol make sure when you do go through and replace the gaskets you get pinto gaskets its what autozone has there alot better than the factory ones and another thing is torqing down the manifold make sure you follow the spec for tightening it back down also placement of the silicone front and back but once you do this on your own or with a friend who can explain things as you go you will go from a non car guy to car guy once you see all that you have taken outta of the engine and put it back together and fire it up for the first time its a great accomplishment even though i have been working on vehicles for a while its always nice to hear the engine fire up right away after a major repair.

 

Thanks for the encouragement and advice everyone. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

Not quite sure how to get the throttle cables off... any help would be great... that is what they mean when they say to remove the cables?

Picture of problem

 

For the cruise cable, there is a small plastic 'C' clip that gets installed in the front side where it connects to the throttle body.

For the main throttle cable, it is removed by rotating the throttle shaft to WOT, then aligning the cable with the slot in the side and pulling towards the passenger side.

 

Thanks, got em off no problem. Another question... the tutorial says to lay the wiring harness off to the side.... how can that be done? I've got everything disconnected basically, but the wiring harness lays right over the motor and is connected on both sides it seems.

 

You have to disconnect it all on the driver's side. There last connector should be the temperature sensor in the driver's side cylinder head down under the brake master cylinder. But you will also have the oil pressure sending unit connector what will be at the back of the driver's side head up against the firewall. Just follow the harness on the driver's side and disconnect everything until you are able to throw it over on the passenger side fender.

 

Ok, this is taking me a while because I am simply taking my time with it. My next question is about pulling the distributor. I rotated the engine until the rotor thing was pointing in the direction of plug 1. Is that all I have to do here before I remove the distributor (aside from marking)? I don't want to have to mess with timing. I only ask because I've read about some people removing plug 1 and checking for compression.