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Wheel bearing

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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 10:31 AM
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I have a 2001 4wd 5sp 4.3 blazer with 104k on it. I got it in 2004 with 35k on it. Since I've had the truck, I've done each of the wheel bearings 2-3 times (using GM parts each time) and now, I think it is time for another set on each side.

Anyone else having this issue or have any recommendations? Wheel bearings going that frequently are ridiculous.
 
Old Jun 7, 2010 | 11:18 AM
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Are you installing them properly? All fasteners torqued properly?
 
Old Jun 7, 2010 | 11:53 AM
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I would agree with swartlkk on having the fastener's torqued properly. A common mistake I see happen all the time is some mechanics use an impact wrench to tighten the center nut holding the CV shaft to the hub assembly. A very big no no on any vehicle. I would consider that excessive having to change the hub assemblies that many times. As far as I know, the front bearing assemblies have never been replaced on my Blazer, and I have done most of the work on it since 2002 before it became mine last year.
 
Old Jun 7, 2010 | 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Mikek1500
I would agree with swartlkk on having the fastener's torqued properly. A common mistake I see happen all the time is some mechanics use an impact wrench to tighten the center nut holding the CV shaft to the hub assembly. A very big no no on any vehicle. I would consider that excessive having to change the hub assemblies that many times. As far as I know, the front bearing assemblies have never been replaced on my Blazer, and I have done most of the work on it since 2002 before it became mine last year.

I've had the bearings done at different garages, so I am not sure. I have a hard time believing they are all making the same mistake. Although it is possible.

I've done ball joints myself, now I am going to give a crack at the wheel bearing. I am not going to cheap out on the brand. Any recommendations?
 
Old Jun 8, 2010 | 07:48 PM
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There are 3 things that can cause the bearings to wear out prematurely:
1. Using cheap quality bearings. Use BCA National, or Timken.
2. Over torqueing the axle nut. Factory spec is 103 foot pounds of torque.
3. Camber being out of spec. Desired spec is zero degrees.
 
Old Jun 8, 2010 | 07:58 PM
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I can pretty much tell you that these places you are taking it for repair is impacting the nut on the wheel bearing it is faster and time in a garage is money. They dont care because it will usually last out the warranty they offer so they will blame it on a bad bearing. You said you did your ball joints so do the wheel bearings they are easier than the ball joints. Make sure you torque everything to spec and you should be OK.
 
Old Jul 11, 2010 | 04:36 PM
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103 ft lbs.. good to know. I was doing a search on size socket to use on the CV center Hub Nut and I came across the answer to my second question.

I just spent 4 hours rebuilding the rear axle. Next weekend will be the growling front ones.
 
Old Sep 10, 2010 | 07:54 PM
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I'm actually going through the same thing you are. I have a 2002 that I replaced the wheel bearing on a little over a year ago and it has since failed. At the time I was unaware (stupid mistake on my part) on how critical the torque spec is. I torqued it by feel. I believe my premature failure is due to a cheap bearing (I only found out after the fact Autozone sells the worst POS bearings) and torque specs. I am installing a Timkin tomorrow.
 
Old Sep 11, 2010 | 05:33 PM
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*UPDATE*

I installed the Timkin this afternoon and much to my dissapointment, I still have the "whiring" sound. Last year I replaced the drivers side. I was pretty sure it was the driver because when I turned the wheel to the right the sound intensified. After changing the bearing originally, the sound went away. This time was similar symptoms; when the wheel was turned right the sound got louder. I could only assume the drivers side had failed again. Is there something fairly obvious I'm missing here? Could it possibly be the rear ? I have my doubts that its the passenger side because like I said, it intensifies when I turn right (more weight applied to left). Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
 
Old Sep 11, 2010 | 06:17 PM
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There are two sets of ball bearings in each hub assembly. On a right turn, the outer left and the inner right bearings are loaded, and the outer right and inner left are unloaded. Just the opposite holds true on a left turn. Diagnosing which bearing set is noisy sometimes requires a stethoscope.
 



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