When replacing all AC components, do I have to distribute the oil throughout?
#61
a) You don't.
b) You don't.
But it doesn't take ton of clamping force to seal those rubber washers so, as long as you can snug it down without pulling out the threads, it should be fine. If it does pull out, you're about 15 minutes and two dollars worse off than you were before you gave it a shot.
b) You don't.
But it doesn't take ton of clamping force to seal those rubber washers so, as long as you can snug it down without pulling out the threads, it should be fine. If it does pull out, you're about 15 minutes and two dollars worse off than you were before you gave it a shot.
#62
I'm familiar with snugging it down, but can you elaborate on what you mean by "without pulling out the threads"?
Appreciating the help, Tom!
Appreciating the help, Tom!
#67
Measure the depth of the hole and compare that to the length of the bolt to get an idea of the number of good threads remaining. Or just do what Tom said but this would give you an idea of the likely hood that the bolt will hold for the duration. If the remaining threads are minimal then you can take a modified version of Toms approach and epoxy/JB Weld the stud in the buggered up hole. He's right that a threaded stud takes exact measurements out of the equation and you just Dremel the top of after the whole thing is done.
George
George
#68
Wouldn't epoxy make this installment much MUCH more permanent than a dash of Loctite?
Separately, what are the dimensions of the bolt I am replacing? The head says " [greek letter Theta] 9.8". I don't want to keep screwing/unscrewing the bolt in order to avoid messing up what little thread this bolt can currently reach. Incidentally, it seems like the compressor to bracket mounting bolts have the exact same threads based on the same writing on the head and fitting the stripped threads that I pulled out last time.
Separately, what are the dimensions of the bolt I am replacing? The head says " [greek letter Theta] 9.8". I don't want to keep screwing/unscrewing the bolt in order to avoid messing up what little thread this bolt can currently reach. Incidentally, it seems like the compressor to bracket mounting bolts have the exact same threads based on the same writing on the head and fitting the stripped threads that I pulled out last time.
#69
Wouldn't epoxy make this installment much MUCH more permanent than a dash of Loctite?
Separately, what are the dimensions of the bolt I am replacing? The head says " [greek letter Theta] 9.8". I don't want to keep screwing/unscrewing the bolt in order to avoid messing up what little thread this bolt can currently reach. Incidentally, it seems like the compressor to bracket mounting bolts have the exact same threads based on the same writing on the head and fitting the stripped threads that I pulled out last time.
Separately, what are the dimensions of the bolt I am replacing? The head says " [greek letter Theta] 9.8". I don't want to keep screwing/unscrewing the bolt in order to avoid messing up what little thread this bolt can currently reach. Incidentally, it seems like the compressor to bracket mounting bolts have the exact same threads based on the same writing on the head and fitting the stripped threads that I pulled out last time.
#70
So the bolt head markings refers to the strength of the bolt, but amazingly, the compressor bracket mounting bolt really was the same thread as the manifold mounting bolt: M10 (you did get the pitch right at 1.5).
Side by side of the old bolt and new stud, and the M10 nut on the old bolt:
Side by side of the old bolt and new stud, and the M10 nut on the old bolt: