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The full size truck axle on the Tahoe is going to be much wider than the S chassis axle. Not to mention it's also a 6 lug, Tahoes are coil sprung setup whereas the S chassis is leaf sprung, have to considered brake setups as most S10s are drum and the Tahoe is most likely disc, and so on...
About the only thing that MIGHT be able to be swapped over, and this is ONLY if the Tahoe and Blazer share the same ring gear size, is the actual ring and pinion gears themselves (there's a 10 bolt 7.5 and a 10 bolt 8.5; most of the S chassis have the 7.5, I'm not entirely sure that the full size ever came with the 7.5, pretty sure most were 8.5 at least). MAYBE the center chunk that the ring gear is bolted onto, but again that is only if we're talking about the same ring gear size diffs. And if they are, you'd most likely have to carry your spider gears over from your S10 diff because of the axle spine counts, IF they're different that is. If they have the same spline count, you might be able to use the spiders in the replacement diff, presuming the axle shaft diameters are the same.
Last edited by blazen_red_4x4; Jul 25, 2020 at 10:05 PM.
Ok, thanks fo the advice. That's what I was figuring. I swapped my rear axle for a newer disc rear end with 180xxx miles on it. I changed the seal while I had it apart. I wasn't educated on how to get the correct preload and messed it up. It started making a whining noise that got louder and louder. I put probably around 1000 miles on it like that. I realized my mistake and needed to fix it ASAP. I thought that I might as well change the bearings while I had it apart. I took it apart and changed all the bearings with Yukon gear bearings. I used all the original shims, and gears and set the proper preload. What I read is that you tighten it until you can turn the pinion with 15-19 inch pounds. Does anyone know if you do it with the carrier in it or out of it. It is stopped making noise for about 100 miles then started again. It seems as if it's started to get quieter. It went from a constant humming resonating sound when cruising, to more of a deeper growling noise that I can only hear periodically. At around 75-80 I can really hear a growl. It's been around 3000 miles sense I changed all the bearings. I live in Texas and I'm leaving for college in Indiana in September. It's a 1100 mile trip and I'm thinking I might want to have it rebuilt before it quits on me in the middle of nowhere. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.
Ok, thanks fo the advice. That's what I was figuring. I swapped my rear axle for a newer disc rear end with 180xxx miles on it. I changed the seal while I had it apart. I wasn't educated on how to get the correct preload and messed it up. It started making a whining noise that got louder and louder. I put probably around 1000 miles on it like that. I realized my mistake and needed to fix it ASAP. I thought that I might as well change the bearings while I had it apart. I took it apart and changed all the bearings with Yukon gear bearings. I used all the original shims, and gears and set the proper preload. What I read is that you tighten it until you can turn the pinion with 15-19 inch pounds. Does anyone know if you do it with the carrier in it or out of it. It is stopped making noise for about 100 miles then started again. It seems as if it's started to get quieter. It went from a constant humming resonating sound when cruising, to more of a deeper growling noise that I can only hear periodically. At around 75-80 I can really hear a growl. It's been around 3000 miles sense I changed all the bearings. I live in Texas and I'm leaving for college in Indiana in September. It's a 1100 mile trip and I'm thinking I might want to have it rebuilt before it quits on me in the middle of nowhere. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.
Typically when changing the seal and no bearings you can just tighten the nut to a couple of hundred ft lbs - the pinion preload should be back where it was since 200 ft lbs should not crush the sleeve any more than it was. But when changing any bearings you should have used a new crush sleeve. It gets crushed to the preload spec with several hundred ft.lbs of torque (you actually need a special tool to hold the pinion from turning). This is done with the carrier and the ring gear out of the rear end. You can't change pinion bearings and use an old crush sleeve and shims. Setting up rear end gears is not for the casual wrench-turner.
Just go to the picknpull and get another complete rear end that is dry around the pinion seal. It will be a lot cheaper and less hassle in the long run.
I bought a new crush sleeve when I bought the new bearings. I used a impact gun and tighten the yoke incrementally checking it frequently with an inch pound torque wrench. I checked the contact pattern of the gears going in reverse (because they are used) and they looked great.
It sounds like you did it right, and your pattern looks good.
Maybe you can put it on jackstands and run it to pinpoint where the noise is coming from? It helps to put the tip of a long screwdriver on the housing by each bearing, and press your ear against the handle. Obviously, you want to use extreme caution when doing that.
I don't think that it's the bearings. It only makes the noise when cruising. If I let of the gas a little it stops. How long does a S10 rear end last before it needs to be rebuilt? I want to upgrade to a zr2 with POSI anyway. I'm going to be driving in a lot of snow and ice, and I could use the extra traction.
