ok so a few years back u haul shorted out my wiring harness for the trailer. ever since my vehicle has had a few wiring issues in the rear half of the blazer. its an 01 2dr 2wd the voltage gauge goes back and forth when the blinkers are on but only does a minor drop in voltage when applying the brake have the amp on etc. but there is a major drop in voltage if u keep pressing the power window button when the window is all the way up. Any ideas?


01 2wd 2dr LS
shes a sexy bitch!
98 2wd 2dr s-10 pick up

 

Good you included that but probably not importantYou know... that's funny.. I never realized before but every car I've ever had does the same, drops less on brake than with turn sigsAlso happens on most every car I've ever had. When DC motors stall they draw more current Yeah..
- I think you should put the stock gauge faces back in or are you saying 01's didnt come with numbers on it? My 99 is pretty damn accurate.. so a numbers reference might be handy to have. 'back and forth' and 'minor drop' are sorta vague.

- do you know how to use a DVM?
Also.. most people put that stuff in their sig line.. dont have to type it in over and over. Click user cpi and on left column 'signature'

 

It is the factory gauge cluster. If you consider 15 amps as normal (at idle or while driving) then I understand that when you apply the brake the minor drop in voltage due too lights, power brake booster etc being used. But when at an idle (in park) or stopped (in drive) and the turnsignals are activated the gauge goes from approx 11-17 amps (crazy gauge). Sorry for the vauge discription. I have a 98 s10 pick up also and the gauge is "damn accurate" too stays spot on 15 amps, very minor fluctuations due occur but not 6 amp fluctuations.

When uhaul shorted out the trailer harness i had to replace the fuse for the running lights. Just thinking maybe the power surge was enuf to damage the blinker flasher but not blow it??? Its more aggrivating than it is a prob cause even with all the lights amp stereo wipers on it does draw enough amperage to shut the car off or set off the battery light.

I guess DMV is refering to a digitalmultimeter? Thank you for any help and for explaining the sig line. Even though im pretty good with computers my parents were so techo retarded we had windows 3.1 when millenium was out so I'm not as sharp as I could be with forums etc

 

You Keep saying amps I am guseing you mean Volts
you car should always charge between 13.2-14.5 volts no higher anythig higher is bad it may sit at 12 volts sometimes but that means it isn't charging at that time

U-haul did my dads hitch and they also shorted it out no big deal the fuse gos thats its job to prevent damage
I would get a Volt Meater and test your system at the battery
If it dose the same then I would start checking and cleaning all your conections both power and ground I may even think about replaceing the Alternator only because the internal voltage rerulator my be going bad

If the VM holds steady and you dash dosen't then I would put my money on the volt meter as being corect and decide what you want to do from there you could replace the cluster or you could run a after marker volt/amp meter or you could just let it go

Also there is Ground wires on your Lights Your U-Haul harness and tail lights use the same ground in the rear you can finde it bye I thing removeing the tail lights and there is a extra ground under the truck follow the kit that u haul put in they dont do anything hard Clean them it dont hurt