OOOHHH! Finally some good reading material!!!

Only issues I have experienced so far are 2 COMPLETE no start conditions. As in, I could not start the vehicle on more than 10 attempts in an hour, or before the battery dies. Whichever comes first.

Kyle, my steering column is still opened up since I went camping back in August. You have just spurred me to dig deeper into mine. Yet, I cannot see how to get the darn thing out.

I'm not exactly willing to spend over $100 on a new switch. How about a NASCAR syle switch system

 

There should be two ignition switch replacement How-To's posted. The one below is the only one that comes up right now. The other one should be restored shortly...

Ignition Switch Replacement by WolfPack

As far as nascar-esque switches, you definitely could replace the whole ignition switch arrangement with toggle switches. You would just have to remember which ones need to be turned on for which key switch position. All of that is listed above so it shouldn't be too terribly bad. You'd want to still keep the passlock sensor so the key would need to be inserted, but then you could switch the related circuits manually to start the truck. You could even get creative with some relays and design a logic circuit to control them.

That is an interesting proposition!

 

Another possibility where you have trouble turning to accessory is a worn out key. Might be worth trying to have a completely new key cut by a dealer. I had a Saturn that was awful to start-- you had to play around with the key a lot to get it to start or anything. Since the key looked really worn (it was thin on the sides and rounded all over) I had a new key cut before replacing the cylinder. Glad I did because the new keys made the ignition work like a champ.

 

The switch and the cylinder are two completely different things. The switch is what is being discussed in this thread.

If you cannot turn the key, then it could be either the key or the cylinder. In which case, replacing the key would be the cheapest initial check.

 

Stabilant 22 is without a doubt the best for this issue in my option.
Every GM vheicle i have had the thrill to work with strange
electrical problems with this type of switch get a treatment of this if not toasted already. (from a power amp hooked up incorrectly)

Not cheap by no means, and never had a comeback to replace switch.

 

Ive been having a similar problem wit my truck(1987 Blazer).My starter had burnt out from cranking the **** out of it because I had bad gas from sitting for 2 years.When I put on the new starter, the truck will turn over but it wont start.When I turn the key the CEL light wont even come on at all.I'm also not getting power to my Fuel pump.Would a bad ign. switch cause this?

 

Possibly, but this thread deals specifically with the 2nd gen ignition switches.

For further help on your truck, please create a thread in the appropriate tech section.

 

My 97 sounds like the fuel pump is getting low voltage (starting to growl a little) but sometimes the wipers work some times not. However today I have got a no start it is getting fuel to the fuel rail but I can take the key to the lock position and remove the key and the fan motor for the a/c still runs. I think it's an ignition switch again the last one was 4 years ago. What a POS

 

If you are looking for help with your problem, I can move your post to the 2nd Gen Tech section or you could repost this topic there. If you are just making a statement, carry on. LOL

 

Could the ignition switch cause the instrument cluster to stop working as well as the display on the headboard to show all ------'s instead of gas mileage or temp?? Also, would this make the 4 wheel buttons on the dash to quit working?? Had it to a local small time garage(parts swapper) and they say there are no codes on the computer and they have no idea what is causing it.. Any help would be appreciated.. Thanks...