(Thanks to Jigg and RCars2 for the info and pics)

4 turns usually = 1" depending on how worn your bars are.

Pardon my dirty truck:

Step 1: Jack truck up by front crossmember:



Step 2: Support truck with jackstands and crawl underneath:



Step 3: Turn t-bar adjusting bolt clockwise. 1 full turn = .25" of lift



Step 4: Stand back and stare at your truck for a few hours. Go get an alignment


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Sure, Jigg's site is www.synergyoffroad.com. As for the t-bar crank its really simple. To start with place the truck on jacks stands and crawl underneath the drivers side of the blazer and look for a really long bar that runs along the inside of the frame, this is one of 2 torsion bars (the other one is directly across the vehicle). If you follow it back you should see it passes through a crossmember and to whats called a torsion bar key (ill post a picture when i get home from work). There is a single bolt in it that adjusts the tension, turn it clockwise to raise it, anti-clockwise to lower it. Now this part is important to make sure you do it right. Make a mark on the bolt with a permanentmarker (blue shows best ive found)and on the crossmember to give you and index point to see where you are at. From here tighten the bolt(its an 18mm bolt) 4 to 6 times depending on the amount of sag in your bars (mine is an 00 with 137k milesand only needed 4 turns) checking the bolt along the way to make sure of where you are at. Repeat for the other side and TADA you have about 1.5 - 2 inches of lift. Follow this up with some 2" or 2.5" lift shackles (unfortuneatly Jigg will be out of them until the fall from what he told me so you will have to ride half lifted like me for a while which is fine, there is no real detrement to it, though if you know someone who is a good welder i suppose you could make a set) and get an alignment if nessesary (to a-tack turns out that my measurements got off somehow and i do need an alignment though its not that far off).

Then when you get some more cash (aka my plan) get the body lift so you'll have about 4" of lift total and youwill be able to clear 31" tires and "should"be able to off-road them with no rubbing.

Edit: got my dad's camera so i have some pictures to show ya.

Edit Again: Fixed the pictures, now they should show

This is the torsion bar


This is the torsion bar key at the rear of the bar, notice the bolt on the right, thats the adjustment bolt.


These are the marks you should make, also write the number of turns that you have made on the crossmember for reference (i need to update mine cuz im only at 4 turns instead of 5)


Edit Once More: Here is another thing i suggest if you run 31's with this lift. At the back of the fender there are two bolts (among many others) that help hold the inner fender in place. On both sides i took those 2 lower bolts out. The inner fender still stays in place and doesnt move at all but those bolts seemed to rub all the time so i took them out.



*EDIT by swartlkk* - Added link to the Article.

How-To: T-bar Crank

 

Then drive it until something breaks. If nothing breaks you're not driving it hard enough

 

do you have to do the on e on the other side to? thanks

 

Yep, rinse and repeat on the other side.

 

doesnt t-bar crank make you go through parts faster though?

 

I am glad someone brought that up. Yes, it does cause increased wear on parts. You can safely go 1.5" lift on the front with this method without drastically increasing the wear on the components. Over that and you are taking a chance at going through things quite quickly.

 

how can you tell if it has been lifted this way by a previous owner ? or should i say what would it be at from the factory ( all the way down )

 

The only way to tell if it has been modified by a previous owner would be to measure it. We will have to get someone with a known stock truck to provide a measurement. Even then, I am sure there is variation.

 

ok let me ask this. for those that have lifted 1-2" what does it measure now ?

 

To check front chassis ride height, the vehicle must be on a level surface both front to rear and side to side, (alignment rack works well). On 4WD and AWD measure from the center of the lower control arm pivot bolt to the ground. Then measure from the lowest inboard edge of the steering knuckle, (next to the lower ball joint stud.) to the ground. Subtract this measurement from the first measurement and the result is chassis ride height. Be sure to measure both sides of the vehicle.

Specifications for second generation T body:
4WD (except ZR2) 4.6" to 5.0"
4WD ZR2 4.6" to 5.2"

To adjust, turn the torsion bar adjustment arm bolt clockwise to increase, and counter-clockwise to decrease ride height. Jounce and rebound the front end after each adjustment to allow the suspension to stabilize.

If front ride height is out of factory specs, (either too high or too low), it increases stress on all 4 CV joints, all 4 ball joints, and to both of the outer tie rod ends. If ride height is too high, it increases stress on the torsion bars. When stress increases, longevity decreases.

After ride height is within specifcation, have the front wheel alignment checked/adjusted. After the alignment, don't mess with the ride height as any adjustment, no matter how small, will affect the alignment.